Beaumatic BT2366SS Dual Fuel Cooker.

[Emulated]

Just purchased a new cooker and had a good read through here for an answer, but found nothing definite. My existing cooker simply plugs into the ring main as its loading is only 2.2Kw. The new cooker states its 3.7Kw-16amps. I read through the Beaumatic blurb but could not find if this was total load or if some elements can only be used without others. I have a dedicated ring main to the kitchen with 4 double sockets and I single for the dishwasher. Can I connect this cooker to this circuit by changing the socket to a dp switch? Hope you can advise. Thanks.

Oven
Temperature selector / Oven function mode
selector 1/1
Baking levels
- telescopis guides at 3 levels (certain
models only)
5
Upper /lower heater (kW) 0,9/1,1
Infrared heater/ Infrared heater
with fan (kW)
2,0/2,2
Oven illumination top/side (W) 25/25
Modes of operation
Upper /lower heater (kW) 2,0
Grill heater (kW) 2,0
Grill with fan (kW) 2,0
Hot air / lower heater (kW) 3,4
Hot air (kW) 2,2
Defrost (W) 50
Lower heater / fan (kW) 1,1
Lower heater (kW) 1,1
Max. temperature 275 °C
Mains voltage 400 V 2N~, 50 Hz
Heater voltage 230 V, 50 Hz
Total mains power (kW) 5,4
Oven total (kW) 3,4
Hotplates total (kW) -
Burners total (kW) 7,8
Total mains power (g/h) 567

 

[Steve]

It requires a 16 amp supply - you must feed this directly from the consumer unit using a 16A MCB, and use a 20 amp switch above the worktop for local isolation.

However, the blurb you posted would seem to indicate that it needs 7.8KW or 5.4KW, which would be a 30 amp supply either way and would require a cooker switch. Check the rating plate on the actual appliance itself.

And are you notifying all this work to your local council's building control, as is legally required of you if you're not using a spark?

 

[Emulated]

Thanks for the info. I rang my local sparks but he is off sick with a severe bout of flue. I told him over the phone that TLC's website staes 3.7Kw 16 amps on their page for this cooker. He assumed that was the max it could use at any one time. As the seperate ring main in the kitchen only has kettle @ 3kw and a dishwasher at @ 2Kw he may be able to convert the existing oven socket to a fused switched spur. But he needed to see it first as he cant remember back to when he did the kitchen ring main. Maybe he was not thinking to clearly as he was very poorly. I need to know because it will be me who has to remove carpets, wood flooring etc for the cable run for when he comes and I hve little time to do iot all with working away.

It requires a 16 amp supply - you must feed this directly from the consumer unit using a 16A MCB, and use a 20 amp switch above the worktop for local isolation.

However, the blurb you posted would seem to indicate that it needs 7.8KW or 5.4KW, which would be a 30 amp supply either way and would require a cooker switch. Check the rating plate on the actual appliance itself.

And are you notifying all this work to your local council's building control, as is legally required of you if you're not using a spark?

 

[Steve]

The maximum for any appliance on a ring main is 13 amps. Anything higher must go on a seperate circuit.

 

[Emulated]

Thanks Crafty. Spoke to my electricians wife and she thinks he will be back at work a week Monday. It appears as if he wants me to get the bits and run the cable for him to connect up. Never said what size cable so I will run 10mm in case someone wants to put in a range cooker later. No doubt the wholesalers will advise me on a seperate consumer unit as my existing is full, and cooker switch. Thanks for your advice.

The maximum for any appliance on a ring main is 13 amps. Anything higher must go on a seperate circuit.

 

[Emulated]

The cooker came and much to my suprise its fitted with a 13 amp plug. I pluged it in and everything works. But as it would overload my kitchen ring main when the kettle is turned on I am having it wired seperate. Just seems odd as it looks as if its load can be 3.4 Kw when the top & bottom elements are on.

It requires a 16 amp supply - you must feed this directly from the consumer unit using a 16A MCB, and use a 20 amp switch above the worktop for local isolation.

However, the blurb you posted would seem to indicate that it needs 7.8KW or 5.4KW, which would be a 30 amp supply either way and would require a cooker switch. Check the rating plate on the actual appliance itself.

And are you notifying all this work to your local council's building control, as is legally required of you if you're not using a spark?