Best place for room stat

[nstreet]

I'm about to replace the time clock and room stat for my ch system. The room stat is in the hall at the moment. None of the rads have trv's.

Which of these is the best scenario for placing the room stat?. Should it

a) be placed in the coldest part of the house ie the hall and have trv's on the rads to control each room or

b)be placed in the room that you want most comfortable, ie lounge, with no trv's in the lounge and trv's in the rest of the house.

Are there any guidelines or is it purely ease of wiring and personal preference?

 

[Diyisfun]

Regardless of where a t/stat is situated its usually possible to get the temp that U want..I fitted a cordless t/stat last winter, after I finished playing with it in different rooms I left it in the hall.

 

[breezer]

i agree with hall, and put trv's on all other rads except 1, this will act as a by pass, and is usually bathroom rad

 

[TexMex]

If you havn't got TRVs, the Hallway is a diabolical setup. When you leave to street door open (say for a trailing lead when mowing the front lawn, Hose run out to the car, getting rid of a pushy salesman etc..). The Hallway stays at a constant temperature and the living room turns into an absolute sauna.

Why would you want the hallway to stay at a constant temperature? You only pop out there now and again. Surely the obvious answer is, to site the stat in the room that you want to remain at a constant temperature. ie the Living Room.

 

[breezer]

Surely the obvious answer is, to site the stat in the room that you want to remain at a constant temperature. ie the Living Room.

I disagree, becuse then when the living room is nice and warm the bedrooms are usually too cold, since living room is warm enough, so heating stops, so other rooms can not get hot enough

 

[Diyisfun]

I agree with Breezer..Living room full of friends, TV on candles burning, got the scene, T/stat says this is hot in here, turns off..Kids shout down mum, I dont mind you having friends round, but can we have the heating on..

 

[TexMex]

I suppose it depends on your lifestyle. I have the thermostat in the living room. Once the system is balanced, under normal circumstances the bedrooms are fine. If we have a party, the doors are normally wide open anyway, so more heat floods upstairs, warming the bedrooms.

On the odd occaision that my daughters bedroom is cooler than ideal, she simply opens her gate valve a little more. The master bedroom always seems to be just fine, as does the box room.

My mother has the scenario I have described above. She never goes out of the living room as she cannot make the stairs any more. Trying to get a resonable temperature for her is next to impossible. I intend to move her thermostat into the living room, (right beside her armchair in fact).

 

[COG]

what a load of twaddle. the room sat "should be able to be positioned in any room that does not have an extra heating element. the rads should have been calculated so that each individual room will reach its set temp ,in other words when the kitchen is 17C and the living room is 21C the hall will be 22C so what ever room you put the stat in it should average out BUT room stats only work good all the U values and different rooms were calculated correctly if not then put it where you want as you probably leave all the room doors open most of the time any way.

 

[blahblah]

Roomstat in area with no trv. trv's on other rads. Hallway for roomstat good- if the door opens it can warm up again without affecting other rooms. You will also be Part 'L' compliant for Builing Regs (re stas and trv's).

 

[nstreet]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Looks like it the hall then, trvs on all rads except the hall. Does the bypass rad (hall) have to be the first in the circuit?

 

[oilman]

Where you have a thermostat, you don't have a TRV, or they will conflict. It doesn't matter which radiator has a thermostat and no TRV, as they should be balanced to some extent. Even if all the valves are open, and there is hardly any heat flowing to the hall radiator, heat will get there as the other valves shut down, so the hall will eventually heat up and turn off the thermostat.

Calculations for domestic heating are usually a joke, (but nobody seems to get it). Calculations are done for boiler size, rad size, required temperature, but at what outside temperature? Pick any, and in the UK it will be much warmer for most of the year, so why all the heat? Even if anybody can concoct a spoof justification for this, say it needs 28kW, they fit 28mm pipes. Well the pipes can pass about 22kW, so there's the first problem, next is the gate valves on the pump, they have a smaller hole than this, so there's the next problem.

Central heating is not all it's cracked up to be.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Yes but you have to work to some rule of thumb or we may as well just act like DIY d*ckh**ds and go down to Wickes and guess it.

 

[oilman]

I take it you're not saying we do all the calculations to 4 significant figures, and then immediately cock it up by using 22mm pipe (as is done in most installations), and we're down to 13kW. That makes professionals just as much d*ckh**ds, except they are frauds as well as d*ckh**ds, sounds like another case of pots and kettles (black ones). If that's the case it's not surprising people don't trust tradesmen, they can't even admit it's all a farce.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Someone need's a filter change.

 

[ChrisR]

You shouldn't have put an apostophe in "need's".
About as important as getting rads exactly right, innit. It's amazing what some people have in their houses. Rads half or double what they "should" be and they never notice a problem.

Eyeball the room, use 50 watts per cubic metre tweaked a bit for the obvious. Plus the last two numbers of someone's number plate so it looks like you're being accurate. Am I being serious? Bet you can't tell!