best tool to use for cutting kitchen worktops to size?
- Thread starter largerjt
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2scoops0406
circulat saw with a straight edge?
2
2scoops0406
Circular saw will cut down, so If I was doing it, I'd cut face up from front to back. Any break out would then be at the back of the worktop and any chip's would be on the bottom. Is it possible to make a test cut first ?
You may however wish to wait for the proper grown up's to comment I am strictly a DIY'er.
You may however wish to wait for the proper grown up's to comment I am strictly a DIY'er.
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2scoops0406
big-all said:Eddie M said:
front to back upside down edd
its the front off the sawblade on the upstroke that cuts
also 2mm protruding
I could have sworn my circular saw cuts downward with the blade rotating clockwise
hence my good advice to wait for a 'grown up' Home now, well jigger me I'm a pillock ! Rotates anti clockwise, so big all (unsurprisingly) is correct, face DOWN, cuts on the up "stroke"
"We are all still learning"
As a professional kitchen fitter do I pass as a grown up?
I always use a jigsaw to cut worktops. I would recommend a minimum of 650watts with a Bosch T144D blade (jigsaw has to be bayonet blade compatible).
Measure your cut & mark your cutting line with a sharp stanley knife against a spirit level (NB always place the spirt level on the waste side of the line - if it slips you'll only damage the bit you don't want)
A stanley knife provides a very clean & narrow line and because you've scored the laminate surface, will reduce any major chipping out as a result of badly adhered laminate.
Here's the clever bit - a T144D blade chips out on the upstroke but leaves a very clean cut in all laminates on the underside, therefore turn your jigsaw upside down, place the jigsaw foot against the underside of the worktop and guide the blade (the only bit you can now see) slowly along your score mark from the front of the worktop to the back. Because you only have the bottom of the blade to look at the body of the jigsaw (underneath the worktop) won't obstruct your view!
Shhhh tho - trade secret
I always use a jigsaw to cut worktops. I would recommend a minimum of 650watts with a Bosch T144D blade (jigsaw has to be bayonet blade compatible).
Measure your cut & mark your cutting line with a sharp stanley knife against a spirit level (NB always place the spirt level on the waste side of the line - if it slips you'll only damage the bit you don't want)
A stanley knife provides a very clean & narrow line and because you've scored the laminate surface, will reduce any major chipping out as a result of badly adhered laminate.
Here's the clever bit - a T144D blade chips out on the upstroke but leaves a very clean cut in all laminates on the underside, therefore turn your jigsaw upside down, place the jigsaw foot against the underside of the worktop and guide the blade (the only bit you can now see) slowly along your score mark from the front of the worktop to the back. Because you only have the bottom of the blade to look at the body of the jigsaw (underneath the worktop) won't obstruct your view!
Shhhh tho - trade secret
2
2scoops0406
pjholybloke said:
Yes, you do!
pjholybloke said:
Don't you mean t'other way around
Fraid not Eddie, if the level is on the waste side of your cut line and you're scoring against it - its only going to move further onto the waste side.
I probably didn't explain it well enough, but I know what I mean [/quote]
I probably didn't explain it well enough, but I know what I mean
[/quote]PS I just spent 10 minutes scoring imaginary lines just to make sure, but it's good to question these things - familiarity breeds.......
I'll get me anorak.
I'll get me anorak.
I'm another who use a circular saw cutting front to rear from the underside. In my experience jigsaws, even industrial ones, still wander too much (at least my Metabo and the previous deWalt do/did - when I'm forced to use someone else's DIY model it gives me the shudders), so for straight cuts I rate a straight edge, circular saw and fine TCT blade as superior.
Scrit
(Trying to act his age and not his shoe size)
Scrit
(Trying to act his age and not his shoe size)
Eddie M said:Home now, well jigger me I'm a pillock ! Rotates anti clockwise, so big all (unsurprisingly) is correct, face DOWN, cuts on the up "stroke"
"We are all still learning"
all you have to remember is the blade will always [normaly
]cut pulling the work onto the base plate or table
so a table saw front edge of blade cuts/ pulls down onto table
circ saw up onto base plate
jigsaw up onto base plate
reciprical saw back onto guide plate
the normal exception is a laminate down cut blade that will push the machine off the worktop
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