Block bonding

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1 Mar 2007
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Hey..in the middle of a build and there is a lot of block bonding involved where new walls meet old.
Ive most of it done and im wondering how often you should be cutting into existing walls.
They are cavity walls meeting cavity walls @ 90 deg.
So far i have been doing one block on each course and alternating from inner to outer leaf as i go up, but am wondering if it would be acceptable to bring in both courses @ once...then skip a course then both again etc etc....this i think would be much easier as i could use my disk cutter as the holes would be big enough to justify using it(12" disk is too big when your cutting 5" wide only)
Cheers,
Marty.
 
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have you thought about, or is it practical to use s.s. wall starters?

wall_starter_12_64.gif
 
Hi noseall...yeah thought about them but i saw them in b&Q the other day and they dont look terribly strong...am i wrong?...anyway ive most of it done but ive the tricky bit left to do and am wondering if its OK to carry both courses into the existing wall on every other course...this OK u think?
BTW the wall starters were about 20 stg eaach and would have only covered 3 courses!!
Cheers,
Marty.
 
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Hi NS 215...u mean these guys???...they look interesting and i may use them later in my project so thanks for that.

http://www.countysupplies.net/1000startertie.html

Anyway im nearly finished now and to be honest the old blockwork is a bit crumbly for any steel fixings to make a positive connection so i just went with the old fashioned way..
However my question still stands(out of curiosity)!!

Is it OK to bring both leaves of the same course into the existing wall on every other course...or is it better to bring one leaf of each course alternating from inner to outer as you go up the courses(i went with the latter which i think is harder work as its easier cut out a big hole on every second course than a small hole on every course...plus it upsets the existing blockwork less)

Im still keen to find this out.....!
Answers on a postcard..........!
Cheers,
Marty.
 
sometimes building control prefer builders to have a straight nick joint with no toothing in whatsoever! simply bolt a stainless steel wall starter up the joint and use the slot-in connectors.

this so that when joining a new build to an existing, the two buildings are able to settle or react at their own pace and so, will not crack the bricks.

regards your query: i would personally tooth every course of blocks when tying in.
 
cheers noseall,
I suppose to be truthful i am bonding in this manner as i want the house foundation to take some of the load!!(plus it gave me some badly needed extra bearing on those 10'6" lintels i have doubled up and used)
Cheers,
Marty.
 

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