Butt hinge pin removal with door closed

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I'm hoping someone can help me with this. There must be a way to do it...

I came home from holiday and couldn't open the front door (upvc multipoint lock). The key turns to a point, and then jams. My first thought was that someone try to snap it (it's an anti-snap pin), so I removed the handle. I can see that the lever is making it past the housing of the lock, and I can feel it starting to engage a spring - so that's not the problem. The barrel is brand new and high quality (replaced in December when we bought the house), but the lock will likely need replacing. I'll need to get into the lock to investigate further.

So I figured the easiest is just to remove the pins from the hinges (inward opening door), and get to the lock from there. The hinges are

https://www.upvc-hardware.co.uk/hinges/butt-fit-upvc-door-hinges/wms-butt-fit-upvc-door-hinge

The grub screws can only be accessed with the door open. How do I remove these hinge pins without being able to access the grub screws? Or is there something else I can do to get the door open? Calling out a locksmith is an absolute last resort, as we simply can't afford the callout.

Thanks
Peter
 
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Probably the easiest way to open the door is snap the lock from the inside then use a Allen key to turn the cam.
It will mean a new lock but that may be the price to pay for getting the door open.

Mike
 
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Yes it is, but they are designed so that if someone tries to break in from the out side they can't gain entry but you can still snap the lock from the inside assuming that there is enough of the lock to grip with some locking pliers.
Before you try this, have you tried to unlock it from the inside with the key?
Sometimes you get lucky.

Mike
 
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Thanks Mike (& Crank)

Yes - I did try from both the inside and the outside. Apparently I'm not that lucky!

I've added three images: The first shows the cam in the position at which it jams, turning clockwise. You can see the cam between the barrel and the lock. The second shows the barrel in installation position, with the cam in line with the levers. The third is an image of the hinge, showing the inaccessible grub screws. The adjusting cap heads are 2.5mm Allen.

The barrel works fine, so I can turn the cam to the installation position and sheer the retaining screw without damaging the barrel (theoretically). However, I have my doubts as to whether or not I'll be able to open the door with an allen key, since the cam on the barrel is essentially doing anyway. I may try this regardless, since I have a spare retaining screw and it will at least get me closer to the lock. Failing that, any thoughts on removing the hinge pins?

IMG_0982.JPG



IMG_0983.JPG



IMG_0984.JPG
 
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If I'm reading what you say right then the shoot bolts are disengaged and the latch is the only thing that keeps the door locked. If the thumb turn will not engage the latch then the only thing that I think might work is to take the window out of the door and use a couple of air wedges like these https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?img...ebVAhUHZFAKHQlNAW8QMwhmKAkwCQ&iact=mrc&uact=8 And slide them between the door and the frame on the lock side and inflate them enough to disengage the latch.
The window removal will help to get a bit more movement on the door side.

Mike
 
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I don't think I communicated that quite right. I can turn the key, but at the point that the lock should go "click" and allow me to pull the handle down, the key will turn no further.
 
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Hi Mike

You're a prince amongst men! I ended up snapping the lock. Anti-snap my ass - two swings with an adjustable spanner and it snapped off (from the inside).

upload_2017-8-23_10-28-27.png


So I took the mechanism apart, and have found the issue. Part A on the image below should return completely, pushed back by the spring. It is not returning completely because the grease is set solid - it's like plastic. This last bit of movement ensures that the deadlock pushes home completely, and that did not happen. This resulted in the cam not engaging the slot correctly, but instead hit up against B marked on the image below. There's no additional sign of wear on the lock. So I've left it soaking in some GT-85, and will clean it all up after a couple of hours and regrease it when I get back from the locksmith with the new barrel.

Once again, thanks for all your help. You're a lifesaver.

Cheers
Peter
 
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That was not an anti snap lock. They have shear lines 10-15mm in from the ends.
That was a standard cheap Euro cylinder
 
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Yeah - I picked that up. And it wasn't that cheap, either. However, I've replaced it accordingly. Thanks
 
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Anti drill anti bump at most, defo not anti snap, I've got hundreds of Iseo barrels in my garage, £10 ensures they're only good for rented accommodation, landlords or tenants always losing keys, easy to snap, 20 sec and in you go, £10 barrel £65 call out and jobs a good un
 

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