Cable size

[jstrong]

Am I right in thinking that 2.5mm is still the required size for power and 1mm for lighting?

 

[elrobbo82]

its not as easy as that it needs calculation of what the loads are, how the cable is routed, if cables are bunched, grouped, ran through insulation, erection method for example.

 

[jstrong]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Rewiring a kitchen, was going to go for a simple ring main with fused spurs for the appliances or is that not necassary i.e. just spur off with power points? and a 6mm supply for the built-in cooker.

Plus extend the groundfloor lighting radial to add some sunken spots!

 

[xr4x4]

Am I right in thinking that 2.5mm is still the required size for power and 1mm for lighting?

Yes in most normal domestic houses.

Sometimes 1.5mm is needed for lighting, depending on load.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Rewiring a kitchen,

I don't want to be boring
BUT
have you notified the local authority and advised them that you are carrying out electrical works in a kitchen?? If you are DIYing it you must do this before you start work, and pay a fee.
The alternative is to use a registered electrician.
This is a legal requirement.

THIS LINK will provide more details

 

[roderz]

Edit: TTC beat me to it

 

[jstrong]

Taylor

Yes I've notified BC as it's part of a garage conversion.

My understanding is that I can do the wirin myself and then pay the extra bdg notice fee to have it signed off?

Here is the scheme....

My consumer unit is in the garage which will become the new kitchen.

I was thinking of having four double power points above the work tops on the perimeter walls, there will be a need for power for a dishwasher,washing machine and tumble dryer below the worktops on the perimeter walls! What would be the correct method for supplying those appliances?
There will also be a concealed fridge/freezer and boiler on the perimeter wall which will obviosly need power.

In addition I will also be having an island unit with the need for power below for hob ignition and power for an additional fridge and freezer, again what would be the correct method for supplying these appliances?

Note: A new concrete floor will be created with a top layer of 75mm screed.

Any advice would be helpful

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Any advice would be helpful

Two very important questions at the outset are:

1) When do you need to start doing the wiring?

2) Did you tell your LABC that you would be DIYing the wiring, or did you let them assume that you'd be using a registered electrician?

 

[echoes]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Rewiring a kitchen, was going to go for a simple ring main with fused spurs for the appliances or is that not necassary i.e. just spur off with power points? and a 6mm supply for the built-in cooker.

Plus extend the groundfloor lighting radial to add some sunken spots!

For a kitchen power circuit for appliances/sockets, consider a 4mm/6mm radial circuit.
2 schools of thought spurs for appliances:
1) 13A switched FCU for isolation & fuse + flex oulet plate for appliance flex.
2) 20A DP switch for isolation + plug/unswiched socket for fuse.
Better not to have a fuse in the FCU and socket: either one may blow in event of overload/fault.