Can I put a fused spur off a cooker socket outlet??

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I am currently refitting my kitchen, and I'm wanting to put the socket for the oven under the worktop in the adjoining cupboard.

The question I have is this..

Can I spur off the existing cooker socket (which has a cooker switch and a separate plug socket) to put a socket under the worktop for the oven to be plugged into?
 
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Now there's a way to inspire confidence and make sure he knows what he's doing :rolleyes:

The answer is generally YES from what I have heard others saying.

You must, however use an FCU before the socket. An unswitched FCU would probably be a good idea. If there is a posibility the socket coming off the fused spur will supply outdoor equipment, use an RCD FCU (Cooker circuits often aren't RCD protected).

::ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION?::

However, why don't you just wire your cooker into the cooker connection unit? I think you use a 16 amp or 20 amp MCB depending on the load of the circuit. Just don't bury flex in the wall, also... you should use a flex outlet plate if your cooker comes with flex and use T&E to run up to the connection switch.
 
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Well - both answers are correct.

You can spur off it, but you shouldn't go straight to a socket that's concealed beneath a worktop. Use a switched FCU that is somewhere accessible to supply the socket. Ideally the FCU should not be hidden in a cupboard, but it's not a major crime if it is.

However - due diligence:

1) What is the rating of the oven?

2) What is the rating of the hob?

3) What is the size of the cable supplying the CCU?

4) What is the rating of the MCB or fuse protecting the cable?


Philosophical question - given how widespread separate hobs and ovens are, why does nobody make a 2-gang sized accessory with a outlet plate on one side to connect up a hob, and a socket on the other side to plug in the oven? It could be designed to comfortably take 10mm cable, and it would avoid all the shagging hassle of having to spur off to connect an oven. True, it would be no use if the oven and hob were some distance apart, but there are lots of instances when they are close. It seems to be taking the accessory manufacturers a long time to wake up to the fact that many people don't have "a cooker".
 
That's the second time today I've been pre-empted by somebody else whilst I was composing a reply...

Not sure about the unswitched FCU - there should be a means of isolation. Guess it depends which side of the CCU you spur from.
 
Ah... Okay... Maybe a switched FCU and an unswitched socket... I just think it is more professional looking not to have a switch where there is already one. Just how I like things I guess.
 
You can compose an item such as you describe from accessories already available and put them side by side in 1G boxes.
 
fasteddy1234 said:
I am currently refitting my kitchen, and I'm wanting to put the socket for the oven under the worktop in the adjoining cupboard.

The question I have is this..

Can I spur off the existing cooker socket (which has a cooker switch and a separate plug socket) to put a socket under the worktop for the oven to be plugged into?
Q? is the existing cooker point being used for anything else apart from the 13Amp Skt.
 
securespark said:
You can compose an item such as you describe from accessories already available and put them side by side in 1G boxes.
Or even in a dual box

AP636.jpg


but then you've got to get 3 fat cables into the outlet plate..
 
Oh! Your famous steel dual box!!

You would probably need a 47mm box for the cooker, yes. In this instance, single boxes come into their own.

Anyway, you can't call them fat, you have to be PC!

How about pleasantly plump?
 
Thanks for all your help.


No, there is nothing else connecting to the cooker socket at the moment, but the hob will be connecting where the old electric free standing oven was.

Will definately take your advice. Will now put a FCU with a switch above the worktop.

Thanks again
 
Didn't think about the depth - you're right - it'd have to be two singles.

Fasteddy - don't forget to check that the following are all OK in relation to each other:

1) The rating of the oven

2) The rating of the hob

3) The size of the cable supplying the CCU

4) The rating of the MCB or fuse protecting that cable
 
you shouldent spur off the cooker circuit.
its bad practice and also im ashamed deeply to see that no one pointed out that he will have to use the same size cable from the ccu to the fcu supply side.....
you should have stuck with breezers answer, there is always an easy way arround these things and i for one would never do it.
 
supersparks said:
you shouldent spur off the cooker circuit.
its bad practice and also im ashamed deeply to see that no one pointed out that he will have to use the same size cable from the ccu to the fcu supply side......

That's why I said:
..but then you've got to get 3 fat cables into the outlet plate..
 

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