Capilliary feed fittings



This is driving me mad. I have never been confident with plumbing, too much mess if it goes wrong. I have decided however to fit an outside tap myself, cos surely it can't be that difficult ;) . The problem I have, is that I simply cannot get capilliary feed fittings (straight couplings and 90 degree elbows) to stick to the copper pipe. I can't get the solder to stay on the pipe, what on earth am I doing wrong??? Don't say use compression joints, please, I have loads of capilliary feed joints, piping, and solder (lead free or otherwise unknown) left over from our central heating installation.
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Are you coating the pipe with flux prior to soldering.
Laco or everflux are (in my opinion) the best.
Heat the fitting in the middle and apply solder until a ring appears all around the mouth of fitting or if a pre soldered heat until you see the same.
You will be there forever without flux or if there is water present in the pipe as the solder will not run :)
you should first clean all to be soldered with say steel wool (so they are bright pink)

liberaly apply flux

put to be soldered joint / pipe together

heat with blowlamp

if you are using yourkshire fittings you will see the solder run out and seal the joint, when it does remove blow lamp

personally i would at this stage add more solder (dipped in flux)

if not yorkshire fittings see above.

i do not recomend lead free solder
breezer said:
you should first clean all to be soldered with say steel wool (so they are bright pink)
Thought I'd add that many plumbers have advised me to rotate the pipe in the steel wool rather than clean along the length - cutting rings rather than channels. Also you need a pretty handy drill to get through the wall!
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I did the steel wool bit, but I didn't use any flux, I thought solder was "fluxed", already, but then as I say I know nothing about plumbing :rolleyes: . I shall persevere, and get me some flux. Also, does it matter what kind of blowtorch you use? I'm just using a ordinary paint stripping one. Thanks for the replies though, much appreciated. I surprise myself sometimes at how little I know. I guess we all have to start somewhere :LOL:
i wonder if you were thinking of electrical solder, that has flux in it.

yes an "ordainiry blowtorch" is fine, but if jointing in situ put something non combustable behind the joint
Lead free solder makes life much more difficult, tin/lead solder is much easier.
I also understood that solder had to be lead free for drinking water. Are Yorkshire fittings lead free?
I only ever use lead free solder now, I find it easier to spot any bad tinning because it makes a better fillet at the end of the fitting. DO NOT use flux "liberally"! While the flux is boiling it's stopping the joint heating so you get bad joints. It's surprising how little flux you actually need if you put it on with a brush so it covers all the surfaces. There are plastic versions of "wire wool" which are much cleaner to use. Old fittings need cleaning inside though - you can get wire brushes for the purpose.
I stay away from everflux because any trace left on the joint turns everything green. Handy for dirty fittings though.

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