Central heating layout

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by TonyS82, 15 Jul 2021.

  1. TonyS82

    TonyS82

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    Hi, I've been slowly renovating my 1960s chalet bungalow and now want to move a radiator in my dining room. Whilst there is no flooring down i took the opportunity to map out the existing pipework. Would someone be kind enough to look at the attached diagrams and advise if anything else needs changing to make a more efficient system. Upstairs pipework is more or less inaccessible at the moment so looking at the groundfloor for the time being.

    The change i mentioned is to put vertical radiators in the lounge and dining room, whilst moving the dining room rad from the outside wall to the internal wall, basically shortening the pipework

    The boiler is located at the end of the thicker 22mm pipe, the rest is 15mm

    Thanks
     

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  2. Servotech

    Servotech

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    It's a standard two pipe central heating system with each radiator return going direct to the boiler.
    Vertical radiators are nowhere near as efficient horizontal ones, so do bear this in mind especially if you like to be toasty warm in winter!
     
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  4. Madrab

    Madrab

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    +1, you need to be careful to check insulation levels, windows type etc. Vertical column radiators can be anything up to 50% less efficient at heating a space than normal convecting radiators. Don't just go by the radiator output.

    Column rads work at around 70% radiation and 30% convection whereas normal radiators work by 90% convection and 10% radiation, therefore they are much more efficient at space heating.
     
  5. MeldrewsMate

    MeldrewsMate

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    I can't work out where your boiler is in that system sketch, but from what info you have given it seems that multiple rads are fed from a pair of 15mm pipes. I suggest that a maximum of 15,000 btu/hr is fed from a 15mm pipe pair, less if there are long runs, so consider upgrading the distribution pipes to 22mm so that only two rads are fed from any 15mm pair. Doing it this way will keep flow velocities from going too high and creating system noise.

    I also suggest that ALL radiators are 100% efficient, and that Madrab and Servotech are refering to their effectiveness. As a word of warning, manufacturers usually quote their rads' outputs for quite high flow temperatures (delta T = 50), which means their average temperature is 50C higher than the room. If you want the room to be at 20C then you'll be looking at flow temps of 75C and return temps of 65C (or 77/63, etc). The current trend is towards lower flow temps, so larger rads will build in some modicum of future-proofing.
     
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  7. TonyS82

    TonyS82

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    Thanks for the reply. Sorry i missed off the boiler, heres an updated layout if it helps. The boiler is in yellow located in the kitchen and has 22mm flow and return until the first elbow.
    The rad on the far right is in an older extension and tees off the pipe in the living room. This has a new insulated flat roof and insulation in the floor. The rest of the house has suspended timber floors.
    When i get round to doing the kitchen i was going to take the floor up and run new pipes for the rad inthe extension straight off the end of the 22mm flow and returns.
    By distribution pipes do you mean the two centeal pipes running through the middle?
     

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  8. DIYnot Local

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