Central heating wiring diagram

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Hello

I've just moved in to a house which has the central heating system from hell! The first thing I noticed was that the water was really really hot, no problem I thought I'll just turn the tank thermostat down, with this the radiators went off. It turns out that everything is controlled by the tank stat and room sat isn't doing anything. Another thing is that when you click the button on the timer for heating nothing happens, so you have to select hot water and beacause the motorised valve is hanging off manually move the three way valve. Like I said system from Hell. So can any one post or e-mail me a typical electrical diagram for a system with an electronic timer, motorised valve, tank stat and room stat, perhaps then I can figure out whats going on.

Cheers
 
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post an email address and i'll send you my picture of a y plan wiring diagram if that's any good to you
 
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Sounds like your 3-way valve is kaputt if it's hanging off. Check the markings on the valve head. If the valve actuator is chrome then it's most likely a honeywell v4039 1036 (or that may be v4036 1039, can't remember). The 1036 is the mid position type. If you have a plastic actuator then it may be danfoss/randall or potterton. Danfoss HSA3 and Potterton PMV3 are mid position valves. The HSA3 and PMV3 are compatible. If it's a danfoss HSA3D or a honeywell other than the above then you may have a diverter valve and not a mid-position valve. If the actuator is blue then you have a switchmaster. This involves a bit more work.
If the valve body is ok i.e. moves freely and isn't passing then you can just replace the actuator. Test the body by holding it in either the c/h or h/w position (use pliers) and, from cold, turning the boiler on. Only port A or port B should heat up depending on which way you hold the valve. Then do the same with the valve turned the other way.
If this is ok then cut the wires for the actuator where they go into the wiring centre (leave the ends in there for when you have to come and wire up the new one). Go to plumb centre or heating supplier and ask for a replacement actuator. If you have a honeywell then you must get like for like (heads and bodys don't match other valves), Danfoss can be replaced with Sunvic or Potterton heads.
For wiring, a mid-position valve is a y-plan system, a diverter valve is a w-plan system. See http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm.
Brown and white wires are usually equivallent.
One other option. If the heating comes on when you operate you the valve head manually using the leaver (push very hard to 'make' the microswitches) then you may get away with just changing the synchron motor inside the head (danfoss/randall and honeywell only). Very easy and cheap.

HTH, Paul
 
Sorry, in my previous post I mentioned the HSA3D and Potterton PMV3 as being compatible. I meant HSA3 and potterton PMV3.
 
sifu

Info:You can use the edit tab on the right hand side to update your note.
 
Thanks for the info masona. I only found the forum today and hadn't yet discovered the edit tab.
 
I have a similar probelm with the radiator control, it has also affected my gas fire, did you get any good responses to your question

R
 
Any idea about the wiring issue? I think the blumber has wired the hot water tank thermostat to the heating side and vice versa
 

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