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Changing Brake Discs

Discussion in 'Car Repairs / Maintenance' started by RickH, 5 Oct 2021.

  1. Old Salt

    Old Salt

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    Just give them a clean and pop them back.
     
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  3. RickH

    RickH

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    Is that all they are ... Medium Carbon Steel bolts ? would have thought higher grade than 8.8
     
  4. fixitflav

    fixitflav

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    Mine haven't failed yet! Grade 8.8 is pretty good stuff, minimum UTS 785 N/mm2, carbon steel for eg pressure vessels is typically 480 N/mm2. Structural steelwork is about the same, depending on grade, I haven't been involved in that for a few years.
    But if your existing bolts are OK you could re-use them, I only changed mine because the heads were smaller than standard size, and well rusted.
     
  5. Mottie

    Mottie

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    So, have you changed them yet?
     
  6. Old Salt

    Old Salt

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    Dont think he’s started yet, at least another 4 pages to go:whistle::sleep:
     
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  7. RickH

    RickH

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    Nope .... I had shoulder surgery last week .. so going to wait until stitches are taken out next week, just getting all in-line ready.
    Have pads & discs ready - Eurospares were really quick & free delivery.
    My plan is to replace the 4 x fixing bolts (M12) and the 2 x disc retaining screws (M6) ... reuse the 2 x fixing pins.
    Was sent link to copy of SKODA workshop manuals .. and this advises to replace those screws.

    Probably do this next weekend.
    Thanks to all for input
     
  8. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    Just skimming a bit through this one Rick.....are you sure the caliper bracket retaining bolts aren't the splined type, so beloved by VAG?
    If so, they are effing tight and you need the vehicle well jacked up to be able to get a long bar onto them.
    John :)
     
  9. RickH

    RickH

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    Will standard reach one work ... or does it need to be a long reach ? ...... see both types sold as for 'caliper bolts'
     
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  11. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    We are dealing with the rear brakes here, right?
    All I can say is that the Yeti, and the replacement car (which begins with K but I can't remember its crazy name) has the splined bolts holding the caliper bracket on, which needs to be shifted to get the disc off. A couple of socket extensions are handy for these, 1/2" drive. The heads of the spline bolts are round so they are easy to identify.
    I can't specifically say for the Kodiaq - it's just a thought I had!
    John :)
     
  12. Mottie

    Mottie

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    I think I had to remove a bottom shock mounting to get a straight fit onto my splined calliper carrier bolts on my A3 to replace the discs. The Golf disc just wiggled out.
     
  13. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    There's been the odd occasion when undoing the centre hub nut will allow the disc out as the hub floats - I'm unsure which car that was on though.
    However, I have remembered that the errant Skoda is a Karoq!
    John :)
     
  14. Mottie

    Mottie

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    If it’s anything like my A3, space will be very limited. I used a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 7mm short bit as in post #4 in this thread.
     
  15. RickH

    RickH

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    From info given the Caliper mounting bolts are torx so probably as you describe.
    The video I had posted showed Hex head bolts also on VAG.
     
  16. Mottie

    Mottie

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    The ones on my A3 and Golf are a M14 splined bolt.
     
  17. Avocet

    Avocet

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    If they are cap heads, Torx or Ribe, then I think there's a pretty good chance that they'll be 10.9, I'm afraid. Possibly even 12.9. I'd definitely re-use the old ones rather than risk 8.8 bolts. The small ones in the caliper slides don't carry much load, but of course, the big ones holding the caliper carrier to the upright, take a lot. They're usually a fine pitch too, for extra clamping load.
     
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