CONNECTING A ROOM STAT TO A BRITONY SE80

[bonedome22]

Hope someone can help me on this subject as i am at my wits end.

Have been trying to wire a drayton combistat rts8 to a britony se80 with no success. Tried a two wire connection as the boiler only allows this as i can see on the pcb and according to the boiler instructions.

Once it is connected and the boiler switched back on it tries to fire up only to switch off after about 2 seconds with the stat set on full.

Would attempt the 3 wire connection as recommended by drayton but i am not sure what wires go where. I am assuming 2 wires from the boiler to the stat and 1 from the mains??? but which wires to where. Diagram shows neutral, neutral (load-call for heat) & live.

Please can someone help

 

[ArtfulBodger]

Was there a bridging wire on the PCB which needed to come out to connect the stat? do the instructions call for a volt free connection? do you actually have a volt free stat?

 

[bonedome22]

hi artfulbodger

thanks for your response

there was a bridging wire, this was removed for the cable to the stat

the instructions call for either a volt free or low voltage stat so i went for the low voltage (24V) one

 

[ArtfulBodger]

Personally I wouldn't use a low voltage stat in what is essentially a bridging operation. I would use a Drayton Digistat 3 or something similar. Actually I can't understand how you could use either volt free or low voltage but then again I'm quite thick when it comes to this stuff. Do you have a permanent mains live connection to your stat? and if you put the PCB bridge back what voltage do you get across the terminals when the boiler is firing?

 

[bonedome22]

i am not too educated in electrics myself

there is no permanent live as this a new addition to a current system at my sister-in-laws new house

she swears by room stats

i am pretty sure that the voltage was 24 at the terminals but could be mistaken

never seen a digistat in use are they any good? do they only require 2 wire set up? i assume they are volt free

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Dont go connecting 240 volts to the pcb linked terminals or it will fry the board, if the MI say volt free then that it was it needs, L & N and maybe an earth to power the stat and the link removed from the pcb connected to the volt free stat terminals, peice of piiss really.

 

[brumylad]

just finished drawing out the circuit diag. to sort out how to replace a honeywell 2 port valve with a drayton 2 port valve on an unusual kind of half s-plan system controled with a randall 102 programmer and a room stat.

I'm sure all the manufacturers use different ways of describing the terminals on these control components to discourage installers from using the competition's stuff.

check out this link http://www.satchwell.com/UsersArea/6705388248438579/D51-2 Combi-Stat.pdf

I would say the britony se80 wants a 2 wire conection from the manual, also the voltage is 24v.

I would try 2 wire connection using either combistat terminals 2 and L or 3 and L.

 

[croydoncorgi]

Whoa there!
This is a Combi, so no programmer, motorised valves, presumably. Just a roomstat.
Also MUST be 2-wire and NOT include ANY connection to mains voltage!!!

The whole point of the Combistat is that it's designed to work more-or-less accurately with different wiring arrangements and voltages. Follow the wiring diagram and instructions for 2-wire, low voltage and it should work.

 

[bonedome22]

Dont go connecting 240 volts to the pcb linked terminals or it will fry the board, if the MI say volt free then that it was it needs, L & N and maybe an earth to power the stat and the link removed from the pcb connected to the volt free stat terminals, peice of p**s really.

so what you are saying is (bear with me as i am not too good on electrics) that the stat needs power to it as in say a normal wall socket, then wiring connected to the boiler pcb via the two terminals there for a stat which then run back to the stat and connected in the stat, therefore 5 wires in total in the stat housing??? or am i losing the plot

 

[bonedome22]

Whoa there!
This is a Combi, so no programmer, motorised valves, presumably. Just a roomstat.
Also MUST be 2-wire and NOT include ANY connection to mains voltage!!!

The whole point of the Combistat is that it's designed to work more-or-less accurately with different wiring arrangements and voltages. Follow the wiring diagram and instructions for 2-wire, low voltage and it should work.

your right it is a combi with just a room stat (if i can get the god damn thing connected)

have tried the two wire low voltage set up but with no luck

 

[ArtfulBodger]

Take it back and swap it for a digistat. Two minutes later it will all be working

 

[bonedome22]

so the digistat will be a 2 wire set up back to the pcb with no requirement for mains or any other wiring at all then

 

[ArtfulBodger]

2-core to the PCB, no volts, battery operated. Perfect. If you want to be really flash you can fit a radio controlled version, costs a bit more tho.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

yea a battery operated volt free digistat would do it as bodger said, so only 2 wires required, 1 in and 1 out from the link removed at the boiler.

 

[croydoncorgi]

If the Combistat is correctly wired (2 cores all the way from the terminal block on the stat to the terminal block on the boiler), the boiler worked before with a loop of wire between those same terminals, and the Combistat goes Click! when you turn the dial to a hotter setting, it's hard to see what could stop it working.