connection electrical ignition on gas hob - help please

18 Apr 2005
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United Kingdom
I would really appreciate some advice on the situation below, probably very straightforward but I don't want to mess it up..I'm a total novice when it comes to electrics!

Purchased a new gas hob to replace existing one. Existing Hob has battery powered ignition, new one needs mains supply. Instructions in new hos state' must be connected using fixed wiring via a double pole switched fused spur outlet with a fuse rating of 3amps, with contact seperation of at least 3mm in all poles'. The wire from the hob states that any plug fitted to this appliace must be rated 15amp with 3 amp fuse.

Beneath the hob is a microwave, powered from a flat plate box?? which is in turn powered from a 'cooker' switch (not fused or cant see one)above the worksurface which also containc a single socket too.

Anyway, the microwave (built in)just connects into the single box via twisting of supply wires and microwave wires. I was just going to connect the hob wires into this aswell but the supply wires are so short I cant even get the box/panel back on. ps. this isn't fused either.

The ideal solution for me would be to buy a single to double socket converter and replace the panel/box under the hob. Then fit 13amp plugs to both microwave and hob(with 3 amp fuse)and away i go.

I do have some concerns though a the hob says must be fixed wired and also if fitting plug must be 15amp rated, I haven't even heard of a 15amp plug.

Also if i need to extend the socket supply wires is it ok to used terminal blocks?

Any help appreciated.
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The hob sounds like it just need power for the ignition, in which case it can be connected using a 13A plug with a 3 amp fuse in it, OR a Fused Connection unit with a 3 amp fuse. some countries have 15 amp plugs, so the instructions have to cater for them too :rolleyes:

Sounds like your microwave has been fitted as a bodge, mains cables should NEVER be twisted together. And it is only protected by the MCB in the fuse box (32/40A?). Dont use it until this is changed.

Your solution of fitting a double socket is fine, you have the added advantage of isolation above the worktop. Dont know if this is to regs tho, being as it is technically a cooker circuit. :?:

The safest thing to do here is to extend the ring main and fit 2 FCUs above the worktop with 2 outlet plates below, one for the micro and one for the hob.
It ceases to be a cooker circuit when you put the double sockets on where the cooker used to go and becomes a 30A radial. Everybody happy. :)
You can reduce the circuit breaker or fuse to 30A if it is higher valued and you are worried, but in reality the plug socket fuses are the real protection, and the most imptant missing thing at the moment. Anyone reinstating the electric cooker circuit can simply remove the sockets again.
the easiest soloution is to remove the cooker outlet plate and fit a single-double converter socket.

this has the big advantage that you can easilly change it back later if you need too
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Not sure why but the first reply I made to this thread has disappeared overnight!

I know this original question its old but it perfectly covers logistics of my kitchen as I've discovered today. In the above situation, would the cooker switch then be able to control the double socket below? Or would it become redundant once the cooker plate had been replaced by the double socket?

Thanks in advance.

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