Cooker Hood Help

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Hi all,

I've got an issue with my cooker hood. The bulb blew on Saturday and took the whole thing out with it and tripped the switch in the consumer unit in the process. I reset the switch but the unit is now dead. I've looked everywhere for a fused spur or socket where the cooker hood could be plugged into but all I have is a multipoint switch board to the right of the hob with switches for the hood, fridge freezer, washing machine etc and don't think there are any fuses there as each of the other appliances have a 3 point fused plug.

I took the chimney off to see if it was hidden there but all I found was the mains cable from the hood into a 30a junction box which is then wired through the wall and I assume to this multi point switch which would mean that the hood is not fused at all. If the fuse has gone and I could find it then great otherwise probably looking at a whole new unit.

Surely this unit must be fused somewhere......
 
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A whole new unit will still not work if there is no supply to it.

First check with a meter for a supply at the 30 amp junction box. If not work backwards to the switch etc.
 
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A whole new unit will still not work if there is no supply to it.

First check with a meter for a supply at the 30 amp junction box. If not work backwards to the switch etc.
And take pictures for us too, especially of the switches. We like pictures.
 
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Many thanks for the replies. I will need someone to check the supply at the junction box as I don't have the tools to do that. The supply from the junction box disappears into the ceiling so unsure if the cable at the switch is the same or whether there is a fused spur in-between that I have failed miserably to locate. A few pics attached (and before anyone says the switch is off, it's only off for the photo) I have tried this already
 

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I do have a voltage detector and that says that there is a current on both sides of the junction box, could this be the case if the fuse if there is one had blown?
 
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Many thanks for the replies. I will need someone to check the supply at the junction box as I don't have the tools to do that. The supply from the junction box disappears into the ceiling so unsure if the cable at the switch is the same or whether there is a fused spur in-between that I have failed miserably to locate. A few pics attached (and before anyone says the switch is off, it's only off for the photo) I have tried this already
Wonderful, I was hoping to see fuses there but it looks like they forgot to fit them. I assume the other circuits work and there is only the one 32A supply to that panel.

I'm wondering if there is an internal fuse in the hood?
 
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I've had a little look underneath and if there is a fuse it definitely isn't obvious. The white cable has a moulded end that plugs straight in to the unit inside.
 
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You need a two probe multimeter or voltage tester to test the voltage between live and neutral at the junction box.

You need something around 230 volts.
 
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Ok thanks, I will see if I can borrow one, it would surprise me in the slightest if there is no fuse with this house or if the fused spur had been hidden behind a cupboard. The house is only 10 years old but some of the decisions that were taken are baffling, like grouting in all the electrical sockets into tiles, madness.
 
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If it turns out it IS live, that would suggest there is no fuse.

If that is the case, it would be an idea to replace the junction box with a surface mounted 13 amp single socket and a plug with a 3 or 5 amp fuse.
 
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Not to mention that completely unnecessary switch panel.
Apart from possibly not having a fuse anywhere near it for the cooker hood, what's unnecessary about the switch panel?

Though not expressly required in regs, it's a good handy way to turn things off if you want to.
 
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Apart from possibly not having a fuse anywhere near it for the cooker hood, what's unnecessary about the switch panel?

Though not expressly required in regs, it's good handy way to turn things off if you want to.

'Things' as you call them usually have their own switches. They are also often plugged into sockets with switches. And finally removing a plug gives perfect isolation.
These wall panels are a fad that seem to be fitted by builders, surprisingly, as builders normally don't want to spend unnecessarily.
 
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If it turns out it IS live, that would suggest there is no fuse.

If that is the case, it would be an idea to replace the junction box with a surface mounted 13 amp single socket and a plug with a 3 or 5 amp fuse.

I like the sound of this, however it would mean that the cooker hood is now kaput and a new one is needed. Now to try and find a new one that will fit the space and someone to fit it which I don't have a good track record of doing
 
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'Things' as you call them usually have their own switches. They are also often plugged into sockets with switches. And finally removing a plug gives perfect isolation.
These wall panels are a fad that seem to be fitted by builders, surprisingly, as builders normally don't want to spend unnecessarily.
Well, there's a water heater - that may be the most convenient place to turn that on and off.

We also have a washing machine - that could be plugged in in a cupboard perhaps, so nice to have a neat switch to isolate that rather than bending down searching in cupboards. No doubt the appliance itself has an on off switch, but nice to be able to completely isolate it, especially if there is a fault on it.

Same would virtually apply to the cooker hood and fridge freezer I suppose.

I think the switches make it a luxury job.
 

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