Cooker Hood Help

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Well, there's a water heater - that may be the most convenient place to turn that on and off.

We also have a washing machine - that could be plugged in in a cupboard perhaps, so nice to have a neat switch to isolate that rather than bending down searching in cupboards. No doubt the appliance itself has an on off switch, but nice to be able to completely isolate it, especially if there is a fault on it.

Same would virtually apply to the cooker hood and fridge freezer I suppose.

I think the switches make it a luxury job.
Water heaters should really have their switches nearby.
When washing machines have a fault they need to be pulled out to investigate. Any plug behind it can then be pulled. Same for fridge freezer.
 
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I still prefer the idea of fully isolating appliances if I want to.
As I said pulling the plug will do that.

But I still wonder why developers fit something that they don't need to when they like to keep costs down.
 
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But, without round in circles, you have stated the plug would be behind the appliance...
 
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Use the switch on the front panel.
Not many white goods have mains switches these days.

Our washing machine (2008), dish washer (2012) and tumble dryer & microwave (both at least 30 years old) certainly don't. I wouldn't want to have to be pulling them out to isolate them.
 
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I've had a little look underneath and if there is a fuse it definitely isn't obvious. The white cable has a moulded end that plugs straight in to the unit inside.
What's the model number? Have you tried googling for instructions.
 
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Model number is Electrolux EFC70710x. Nothing in the manual that states whether there is an internal fuse. It does say however that it is recommended it's connected to a 3a fuse spur etc etc. I think without the fuse being in place it has blown the PCB and so a new one is probably required.
 
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Model number is Electrolux EFC70710x. Nothing in the manual that states whether there is an internal fuse. It does say however that it is recommended it's connected to a 3a fuse spur etc etc. I think without the fuse being in place it has blown the PCB and so a new one is probably required.
You don’t seem to have checked the junction box with a 2 pole tester yet.

Why do you think a simple extractor has a PCB?
 
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'Things' as you call them usually have their own switches. They are also often plugged into sockets with switches. And finally removing a plug gives perfect isolation.
These wall panels are a fad that seem to be fitted by builders, surprisingly, as builders normally don't want to spend unnecessarily.
Yes, I agree, it maybe a fad.
But, in light of recent events - if a wax motor was burning the front off of a tumble drier, I would prefer to isolate elsewhere!
Hence, it may be a fad that lasts.
 
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You don’t seem to have checked the junction box with a 2 pole tester yet.

Why do you think a simple extractor has a PCB?
True, but if there is no fuse and there is juice at the switch I can't see it being anything other than a board of some kind having blown when the bulb went.
 
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True, but if there is no fuse and there is juice at the switch I can't see it being anything other than a board of some kind having blown when the bulb went.

Are you an electronics engineer? Why do you think a simple extractor has a PCB?

Again have you checked the junction box with a 2 pole tester?
 
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I'm afraid the exploded diagrams don't specifically show a fuse on the PCB:

https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/electrolux/cooker-hoods/efc70710x (94249236400)/

But the diagrams could give you a good idea about how the extractor can be taken apart!

Are you an electronics engineer? Why do you think a simple extractor has a PCB?
Sorry @winston1 , it does have a 'Push button switch board PCB'

We may also be able to help, if you do go down the teardown path! :)
 
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I do have a voltage detector and that says that there is a current on both sides of the junction box, could this be the case if the fuse if there is one had blown?
This seems to be your only check so far. It is not very useful or meaningful I'm afraid. A voltage detector can't measure current or even 'juice', and will see voltages all over the place. With a two pole voltage measurement device you could well find a broken or badly made connection somewhere.

If it weren't for the forum's time-waster satisfying his strange desires I expect this could have long since been resolved.
 

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