Cooker Hood Help

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If it weren't for the forum's time-waster satisfying his strange desires I expect this could have long since been resolved.

To be fair to 'W', he did recommend testing the supply with a meter in post number 2.
 
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I don't know who you mean by the forums time waster. I asked a question in post 2 and here we are 34 posts and 3 pages later with it still unanswered.
 
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As I said pulling the plug will do that.
Not if you can't reach it.

The spirit of the regs is to segregate to minimise inconvenience.

A good design will include appliances in this.

Yes, you can turn off the appliance using its switch if fitted. But there are cases where you would need to isolate both poles.

If you can't reach the plug, then you are left with isolating at the consumer unit.

Not at all convenient, is it?

Far better to be able to isolate the appliance locally by fitting (for example) the socket feeding it in an adjacent cupboard.

Plus, it is often difficult finding space for sockets behind appliances away from heat.
 
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Ok so I've managed to borrow a multimeter from a friend and checked the supply at the junction box and it reports as 240 v.
 
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Ok so I've managed to borrow a multimeter from a friend and checked the supply at the junction box and it reports as 240 v.
In that case the next step is to find a way in to the case but not knowing your mechanical abilities I don't know whether to advise:
1. Working out how to remove panels, or
2. Seeking help from someone else, or
3. Replacement.
 
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I really can’t believe replacement of the entire hood is required because a bulb expired.
 
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Ok so I've managed to borrow a multimeter from a friend and checked the supply at the junction box and it reports as 240 v.
I would agree with W here. When you measured this voltage it was presumably across the metal of the contacts in the junction box. At this point I would be checking that the cable coming out of the connections going to the extractor were made correctly. In other words I would take the wires out, examine them and then put them back carefully. A failing bulb can take a fair bit of current, But to fuse the wiring inside the unit sounds a bit extreme and unlikely. It seems much more likely that a poorly made joint failed outside the box.
 
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I really can’t believe replacement of the entire hood is required because a bulb expired.
No I agree but I recently replaced my printer as the repair cost significantly exceeded the cost of a replacement. I don't know the cost of cooker hoods but the cost of getting someone out and the following repair (my option 2) may well be more than the cost of a new appliance. For myself I would have no hesitation of at least opening and looking but seeing the level of difficulty so far, I for one would not like to feel responsible for OP slicing his finger open on the ubiquitous razor sharp edges found in such appliances.
 
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Wires look fine at the junction box for both the supply and the cable running to the hood, well secured in the terminals, no black marks on the insulation, no freyed ends. Electrolux offer a fixed price repair for £150 so will do it.
 
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Ok so managed to extract the PCB, I'm not an electrician but it doesn't look healthy.
 

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Whoa!
That's impressive! :eek:

It's possIble some PCB traces have been damaged.
And if that's the light switch (edit: yes, I believe it is the light switch!) above, that may also be toast! :(
Can you wipe off some of the soot and take another pic, and one of the other side of the PCB?

As linked earlier, the spare PCB from Ransom, is £52
https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/electrolux/cooker-hoods/efc70710x (94249236400)/push-button-switch-board-pcb/114247.htm

But, the connector blocks on the side also need checking for damage.

Also, good job of getting to the issue! (y)
 
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I think you should buy a new hood and not waste any more time on your current one.
 

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