Correct way to extend 6 or 10mm cable?

[Paul_Thomas]

As part of our kitchen refurb I need to extend the existing 6 or 10mm cable approximately 2-3m. (I haven't checked the cable size yet).

What is the approved way of doing this ?, as I believe you shouldn't have inacessible connection boxes.

 

[securespark]

FWIW, replace the cable if you can.

 

[davy_owen_88]

But if you really can't replace it then crimping is the next best option. Followed by a 60A junction box that is readily accessible.

 

[Paul_Thomas]

It would be difficult to replace it because of where it is located in the room, let alone the additional £25 of cable.

There is already a 32a junction box on the cable that comes from the DP switch (To extend it further to the cooker)

How acessible does it have to be?

 

[securespark]

Very, as opposed to slightly.

Either it is accessible or not.

Where are you putting it?

 

[dw3101]

Replace the bit of cable from the switch, or are you moving the switch too?

how much are you wanting to extend it?

 

[Paul_Thomas]

The existing wall where the cooker was is being knocked down. The wire will instead have to be run in the roof for and extra 1m and approx 1m down the nearest wall to a new cooker DP switch.

So need to extend it approx 2m

 

[dw3101]

Looks like youve got a problem then

People on here recommend crimps, I wouldnt. Id only recommend replacing the cable, As far as I'm concerned its the only real solution, especially on 6mm² and 10mm² cables.

But you know what they say.. Opinions are Like ars$hole$... everyone has one.

David

 

[RF Lighting]

let alone the additional £25 of cable.

So you are happy to have walls knocked down, and redo the kitchen, but you will not spend £25 to do the job properly.

If you are doing all this work the replacement is the way to do it.


Cables should only be jointed as a last resort which this clearly isnt.

 

[Paul_Thomas]

Ok Guys, point taken.

I'll wait until the walls are down and see what access I have to run a new cable.

Thanks

Paul

 

[johnnyjb]

alot of people arond here recommend replacin cables but if there not damged its not worth the money hassle and mess.Most of the cables in peoples houses are shabby and old so its not goin to matter if you can replace it do

dont be fooled by bunch of robotic repeatings of lines from a regs book

 

[securespark]

In a stirring mood tonight?


I'm sure even you can appreciate that the fewer the joints in a cable (or pipe for that matter) the better. If you can replace it, do.

 

[bernardgreen]

alot of people arond here recommend replacin cables but if there not damged its not worth the money hassle and mess.Most of the cables in peoples houses are shabby and old so its not goin to matter if you can replace it do

dont be fooled by bunch of robotic repeatings of lines from a regs book

With respect a shabby cable with its conductors intact and un-jointed is not a fire risk unless the insulation falls off and a dead short occurs. When this happens the circuit protection will operate before enough heat is generated at the short to cause a fire.

A joint in a cable if the clamping pressure is reduced can become a resistive joint. When current passes through the joint it heats up. The currrent is not excessive so the circuit protection has no reason to operated. The heat builds up and the junction box and /or ajacent material is damaged or destroyed by heat.

 

[RF Lighting]

dont be fooled by bunch of robotic repeatings of lines from a regs book

The regs are there for a reason.
Their sole purpose is to prevent injury or death to people and livestock, and damage to buildings from unsafe / faulty electrical installations.

They are written by some incredibly knowledgeable and experienced people.

I know that I only ever joint a cable as a last resort. I would sooner replace the cable and be happy in the knowlege that I have done the job right, as I'm sure many others do.



Do you have no pride in your work?

 

[securespark]

And anyway, where does it say in 7671 that you cannot use junction boxes?