Cracked clay WC collar

[nebjamin]

Hi all

In the process of renovating the downstairs toilet. Removed the old pan and pulled up the floorboards to find that the collar on the WC waste has been broken for some time (see pics below).

The clay pipe immediately bends off at ~90 degrees under the kitchen floor and outside to an inspection chamber. The whole lot is covered in concrete (like you can see in the pic).

As you can see the black rubber seal of the extension is pretty much all sticking out of the side (where the collar used to be).

How should I proceed here? Is there such a thing as a flexible insert extender similar to what's there already but one that will go round the bend?

Bit nervous to disturb it as it is in case more cracks off.

EDIT: After posting I pulled the existing plastic extender out. See the image to show what just the clay pipe looks like without the insert.

Thanks!
Ben

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Is that an outside wall? I'd be very reluctant to try and bodge anything up, if it leaks, its not going to be pleasant under the floor. Only solution is to replace the pipe, but if its encased in concrete then not so easy. Dig back a bit, and see how far the concrete goes, but you may be looking at replacing.

 

[Servotech]

Looks like you've got about 1" of drain before the bend. Ok I would cut a bit off the multikwicks spigot- as long as it's got a couple of fins in the drain it will seal. Don't start chopping out the concrete around it because you will smash the drain and it will cost a lot of money to fix it!

 

[nebjamin]

@Hugh Jaleak - No, it's an internal wall. The pipe goes under the kitchen floor (suspended timber). It's in concrete for most of its length (I know as I've had the kitchen floor up in the past). Replacing the pipe would be a major hassle and expense as the kitchen floor has been recently covered in Karndean.

@Servotech - I was thinking similar. Something like the connector below might stick in far enough to get a good seal...

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Straight-Soil-Pan-Connector/p/431975

Thanks both for the responses!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Id get the timber checked out too, behind the drain connection. I'm a bit concerned about the look of that.

 

[nebjamin]

@Hugh Jaleak Oh yeah... that's the other problem: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...upported-by-rotten-joist.479807/#post-3872478

 

[Madrab]

If you can't get that out, would it be possible to shutter that small section and then pour some fast set into it to create a new collar with a piece of 110mm in it pushed past the joint that will be created? I appreciate it isn't ideal but without hacking that pipe and crete out, it may be the only option.

 

[nebjamin]

@Madrab Yeah - I also wondered if that would be an option. The end of the pushed-in 110mm is past where it's all bust up. It's just making sure there is enough of the rubbery flappy bits inside the existing pipe: the shuttering as you suggest would help keep it all in place. I got a couple of McAlpine/Multiwkik fittings from Wickes this morning - will have a play about and see what works.

OOI - would it be possible to stick in a 110mm piece as you suggest then have the whole lot lined? Not against spending money, just can't face pulling up the floor in the kitchen (I did it myself).

Cheers

 

[Servotech]

@Hugh Jaleak - No, it's an internal wall. The pipe goes under the kitchen floor (suspended timber). It's in concrete for most of its length (I know as I've had the kitchen floor up in the past). Replacing the pipe would be a major hassle and expense as the kitchen floor has been recently covered in Karndean.

@Servotech - I was thinking similar. Something like the connector below might stick in far enough to get a good seal...

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Straight-Soil-Pan-Connector/p/431975

Thanks both for the responses!

Yeah, that looks something like you need. TP do one as well... https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/McA...0mm/p/995365?gclid=CLG3gKrT-dICFUMTGwodnJMIpg.
I think you will still need to shorten the spigot, because fully inserted it will go too far into the bend and be a risk for causing constant blockages; the idea to strengthen it with concrete is a good one.
Cut about 2" off the spigot end, that looks about right.

 

[Madrab]

My thought was just use a piece of 110mm grey soil pipe, flute the end so when it's in the clay pipe, the fluted end faces the pipe outfall, that way there's no restriction to the flow. That then gives you a pipe to fit the pan connector to.

 

[Agile]

I would also be thing along the Madrab lines too.