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curved walls skirting?

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by sierracsierra, 18 Mar 2007.

  1. sierracsierra

    sierracsierra

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    We have curved walls in a newly built extension. The radius is about one metre. The chippy has tried wetting some pine skirting and bending it overnight, but it did'nt work very well. He then made some notches at the back in a nother piece of pine, tried to bend it, and it snapped :confused: .
    I did some research on the net; it seems that PVC skirting is not as felxible as flexi MDF. I was told by the guy at wickes that flexi MDF is what people use in bay windows. So we are trying that next.
    Any comments or advice would be most appreciated. Thanks.
     
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  3. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    I cant give you any advice unfortunately, but I have the same thing to do myself.
    I was going to cut the notches out of the back, but you've tried that.

    Can I ask where you got the Flexi MDF skirting from - I've not seen it at wickes?

    Let me know how you get on - I look forward to seeing what others reply with.
     
  4. sierracsierra

    sierracsierra

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    Hi Kevin,
    I have'nt seen the skirting at wickes either, but when I phoned my local branch, the guy I spoke to recommended it. The builders are getting it for me as it comes in 2.4m lengths and my cars not long enough! The codes and prices are as follows if you want to make enquiries: Single length code = 120145 £3.69. Pack of 8 code= 120143 £23.29.
    Alternatively, if you want to wait, I will send a post to this forum to let you know how we get on with it.
    Regards.
     
  5. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    Thanks. I'll hang on and see how you get on for now.
    Good luck. I did hunt some out at one builders merchant but they were very square - I really want bull-nosed stuff to match my existing.
     
  6. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    Just thought I'd let you know I've not given up on using wood just yet.
    I've got some lengths to play about with.

    Cut lots of grooves in the back with a mitre saw and the 3" bull-nose bends round the bay quite well. Main thing is trying to support it in as many places as possible rather than letting it bend and snap in one place.

    The 4" (which I need) is proving more difficult. I've decided that a whole bay with one piece is too much, but have managed to bend two half peices which I will join in the middle. One half is screwed to the wall now hopefully getting used to its new shape. I'll take it down at the weekend and screw the other one to the wall also.

    Hopefully all things being well it should be OK.

    Just a thought in case you have trouble getting the plastic ones you want. It might be worth playing about with a cheap £15 mitre saw and a few lengths of skirting before you disregard it completely.

    Equally, if it all goes wrong I'll be back to see how you get on with the plastic stuff.
     
  7. sierracsierra

    sierracsierra

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    Hi Kevin,

    Thanks for the posting.

    We are also experimenting with the wood (pine) skirting after the chippy snapped the MDF one we had bought and then started to 'slag off' mdf (and wickes) big time. Saying that because mdf fibres are horizontal, we won't be able to score the back, it will just snap!

    I was'nt considering plastic, cos I'd heard it was not as pliable as mdf.

    We would prefer pine, chamfered profile as that is whats in the rest of the house. So we have two stacks of bricks in the garden, with 4 lengths of pine skirting supported each end, and breeze blocks as weights on the skirting. They have been outside for three days now and they are looking good bending in unison!
    I will keep you informed, let me know how you get on weighting them horizontally.
    Bye for now
     
  8. 2scoops0406

    2scoops0406

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    I think the're called kerf cuts BTW.
     
  9. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    I must admit I'm not using weights. Have managed to bend it enough to screw in place where it will end up without the need to shape it first. Have done one half - it will come off at the weekend and I will do the other half then.

    Your method sounds like it might be better though.
     
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  11. bendylow

    bendylow

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    sorry i haven't read all of the posts so this may already have been mentioned.to bend wood succesfully you need to steam it this involves making a steam box.a soil pipe is ideal for this,then you need to close the ends off,make a small vent hole at one end and attach whatever you use to create steam to the other end,a wallpaper steamer is perfect for this,just take the pad off and insert the hose into the steam box making sure you have a tight seal,leave it to steam for 3-4 hrs making sure it doesn't boil dry then remove the timber and bend it,you have to work quickly because it doesn't stay soft for long,you should also use clear timber(no knots).hope this helps.
     
  12. Scrit

    Scrit

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    A very important point you might like to note - not all species of timber will steam bend well. Pines are generally considered to have poor steam bending characteristics, whilst the cedars and some hardwoods are much better, and kiln-dried timber generally has a much higher failure rate than air dried (softwood or hardwood). You also missed the starting point about timber needing to be steamed for give or take one hour per inch of thickness to make it pliable enough to bend well. In addition to the piece being knot free the grain should also be straight, i.e. there should be minimal "run-out" as that can result in splitting. The piece will need to be bent to a tighter radius than required as there will be a degree of "spring back" once the cramp pressure is taken off. I have a steamer which I use on hardwoods, but I've never had success with the whitewood (softwood) sold for joinery work, hence my scepticism. Saw kerfing might be monotonous, but works well if done consistemtly and with care.

    Scrit
     
  13. sierracsierra

    sierracsierra

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    Thanks guys for your suggestions.

    We have left the lengths outside all week, it has been very damp and foggy in the mornings, and the occasional hosing down with water, so in your opinions, will this do the same job as steaming it??
     
  14. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    Found this on the web (a bit too late though) but it might come in handy if your current plan doesn't work. Or my current plan too for that matter. I've got my skirting in place screwed to the wall. Main thing now is whether the pink grip I'm using is strong enough to hold it in place when I remove the screws. If it isn't I'll have to try steaming it I think.

    http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/WOODWORKINGBENDING_WOOD.htm
     
  15. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    Blocked the link for some reason.
     
  16. kevin_robson

    kevin_robson

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    try putting 'Kerf cuts skirting' into google UK.
    You want an Ultimate Handyman
     
  17. sierracsierra

    sierracsierra

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    Kevin,
    Why not leave the screws in place? If they are countersunk, you can just fill them with filler before you paint. Or maybe you are not painting :oops:
     
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