Cutting Laminate worktop without causing damage?

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Hi

I have purchased a 3 metre length of laminate worktop which is 60cm deep. I need to cut along the 3 metre length to make it 40cm deep. What would be the best way to do this without chipping or damaging the worktop?

I own a circular saw and a jigsaw. Any help would be greatly received :D
 
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Hopefully your circular saw has a sharp, fine toothed blade, in which case flip the top over so the underside is uppermost, clamp a straight batten (say some 3 x 2 PAR pine or the like) to it to guide the saw, then saw the back edge away from the "wrong" side. The jigsaw will tend to leave a slightly wavy line which a guided circular saw won't.

Scrit
 
Scrit said:
Hopefully your circular saw has a sharp, fine toothed blade, in which case flip the top over so the underside is uppermost, clamp a straight batten (say some 3 x 2 PAR pine or the like) to it to guide the saw, then saw the back edge away from the "wrong" side. The jigsaw will tend to leave a slightly wavy line which a guided circular saw won't.

Scrit

just to add to scrits good all round advice
the saw blade should be set no more than 3mm [one tooth depth] greater depth than the work so the blade dosn't rip out the surface
 
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trazor said:
Scrit said:
then saw the back edge away from the "wrong" side. Scrit

:confused: :confused: ...Surely he wants to cut the right side... :LOL: :LOL:

nope scrit is spot on upside down front to back

think of the way the circular saw blade cuts!!!

you lead into the worktop from the front first point of contact is the blade just nicks the worktop [mostly in a forward motion] as it goes up into the baseplate so it cuts into the work

as you progress it cuts into the front and proggresivly into the worktop on the upward stroke into the worktop so a clean cut and the blade breaks out the top [which is the bottom] with any chipping here

clear as mud eehhhh :D ;)


as an aside if your blade is set to full depth when you first hit the worktop you increase the liklyhood of chipping as the blade is nearly cutting accross the surface
 
I,m with it now...

You have to cut the wrong side,right, right, not the right side, which is wrong, right......
 
Worth mentioning that you'll need to clamp the waste part to the workpiece so that it's properly supported when you complete the cut so that it doesn't rip the laminate at the end of the cut. Might seem a basic point but I feel worth mentioning.
 
Just put some masking tape on good side and mark size in the tape.Make sure its good tape and rip on good side not underside,that way there is no splinters on lam from the blade when ripping .Cut should be fine ,if you have a good blade.Same with jig saw,or I would use a router myself even just to break the surface in a fine cut minimum depth say 2mm the do a finish cut just off the routed edge.
The guys who stated the wrong side up to use a ripper are also correct but knowing mostly that people want to keep an eye on the work they are cutting my way is a good alternative for a novice. good luck anyway
 
kasparx said:
Just put some masking tape on good side and mark size in the tape.
Unfortunately I find this doesn't always work and that you'll sometimes get break-out or chipping if the lamination is less than perfect. Hence my original advice.

Scrit
 
Scrit said:
Hopefully your circular saw has a sharp, fine toothed blade, in which case flip the top over so the underside is uppermost, clamp a straight batten (say some 3 x 2 PAR pine or the like) to it to guide the saw, then saw the back edge away from the "wrong" side. The jigsaw will tend to leave a slightly wavy line which a guided circular saw won't.

Scrit

Alternatively, try routing it 10mm at a time starting on the good side
 

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