Danfoss hsa3 way actuator/valve... Please any advice...

P

Peter171

Hello
Please can anyone help me out, problem seems to be possibly the 3 way actuator, I have removed the actuator several times over the past two weeks as it makes a clicking noise.
This occurs mostly first thing in the morning when it the actuator is moveing from RADIATOR position to HOT WATER position (90 degree), hope I am correct in that, the HW is the first thing I have on, it would appear that it stops at a halfway position which then heats both radiators & hot water.
I do not set both to run togerther, I have only one working at a time on, the control panel shows the correct led on for each setting i.e. rads or hot water.
I can turn the valve shaft by hand, its not loose it take a bit of effort to move it, should it be like that ???
As I said this happens mostly first thing in the morning but has occured during daytime after the system has been running.
After removing the actuator I refitted it several times then it works for one or two days before doing the same thing again .......
Any advice would be appreciated ...
Thanks, Peter.
 
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They are rubbish but still available so just pop a new actuator on...if its clicking its slipping. May also be worth sticking some wd40 on the valve spindle and giving it a wiggle.
 
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Nooooo! Don't put WD40 on the spindle! Mineral-based oils (including WD40) can make O rings (as in the spindle seal on your valve) swell and make the thing stick worse! The only suitable lubes for rubber seals are specific ones, and silicon grease. (OK- the O ring in your valve MAY NOT be a type of rubber affected by this but I don't know and there's no easy way of finding out without wrecking it.)
 
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croydoncorgi said:
Nooooo! Don't put WD40 on the spindle! Mineral-based oils (including WD40) can make O rings (as in the spindle seal on your valve) swell and make the thing stick worse! The only suitable lubes for rubber seals are specific ones, and silicon grease. (OK- the O ring in your valve MAY NOT be a type of rubber affected by this but I don't know and there's no easy way of finding out without wrecking it.)

I've never had a problem and done many over the years, you cannot lube them up with silicon grease there is no access and to be honest if you are needing to lube them their on their last legs but you may get another year or so. It's a fair shout though.
 
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Soggy_weetabix

I would consider replacing as HSA 3's are prone to leaking.

If you would rather not replace the whole valve, but a new one and replace the 'guts'. 4 screws on the valve body will remove it.

Take care though as paddles and springs can dissappear if your not careful. Usefull if poor access to the connections.

Honeywell provide a more reliable mid position valve.

David
 
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Agree with soggy

Bin Danfoss - often only last a couple of years before leaking - even with fully treated water - use Honeywell
 
W

wilhelm

ball ocks. danfoss are ok. "only last a couple of years" ...yeh right.


they use same synchron motor, so theres not a lot else left, part from an different size o ring on the shaft , probably.

:rolleyes:
and im not going to get into there machine shop tolerances etc. on the shaft ... im sure they like to churn out products that are relaible. strange as it may seem :p
 
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I used to fit Danfoss for most installations - then realised how often they leak a few years later - perhaps its the water in London.

Rarely come across leaks on Honeywell. Danfoss valve bodies are also used by Sunvic?

"They use the same synchron motor, so theres not a lot else left..."

I suggest instead of posting nonsense you take the trouble to strip the valves down - considerable difference between a Danfoss shoe valve and a Honeywell ball and plate valve.
 
W

wilhelm

i suggest to you ill post whatever nonsense i want.

shoe valve and a ball plate.....?


youre talkin out of your ball plate.
 

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honeywell told me that their synchron motors are a higher wattage to other manufacterers at 6watts.
yes ,had alot of leakin danfos spindles but had alot of probs with balls swelling on Honeywell.
 
W

wilhelm

yep that ball leaks. many a time i go to a honeywell..."got ch when dhw only selected etc" :cry: the shoe valve is better :LOL:

anyway. enough already....i aint gonna stick up for one multi national against another ..thats their job. :LOL:

:cool:
 
P

Peter171

Thanks for all your replys.......

As I can turn the valve shaft by hand the general opinion seems to be it must be the actuator thats faulty as its making the clicking sound, is the actuator motor normally very hot ??? this one is.
There's no sign of any water leaks from the valve so hopefully thats o.k.
Thanks, Peter.
 
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Thanks for all your replys.......

As I can turn the valve shaft by hand the general opinion seems to be it must be the actuator thats faulty as its making the clicking sound, is the actuator motor normally very hot ??? this one is.
There's no sign of any water leaks from the valve so hopefully thats o.k.
Thanks, Peter.
I know this is dragging an old post up and sorry for that, but what was the outcome on this, I seem to have exactly the same happening on my heating/hot water at the moment. The actuator is making a clicking noise when the system turns on and I am getting hot rads when only the hot water is on. Oh the the actuator does seem to be quite hot too (even once the pipework has cooled down.

Many thanks
 
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If it clicks every few seconds and the mains voltages comes and goes on the grey wire with clicking then the actuator is broken and needs replacing. It's independent to the valve so can be replaced on its own.

This particular fault is caused by one of the microswitches inside the unit failing. You can verify this by removing power from the system to ensure the spring takes it back to 'open port B' position then using the lever to change to the other position. A working one will click quietly twice just before and after 45 degrees. If it's completely disconnected then you can also check resistance between various wires to verify this. Diagram of internals below:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm
 

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