Design and build built-in wardrobes

[DH05]

I'm interested in building several built in wardrobes in MDF. I need to achieve a professional looking result. I have reasonable DIY woodworking skills, but limited access to tools and wonder whether this is something I can undertake.

I had imagined that I would have all the major cutting done by a shop or timber merchant to my specifications. Willl I get the necessary precision from such a service?

I'll use a router to put a small radius on edges.

I was going for a "shaker" look and was hoping to create the panel effect by laying on 6mm MDF strips on an 18mm flat door. Will differential expansion of the MDF cause warping? What glues can be used that won't cause warping?

Are there good books or other references for basic design and construction techniques for fitted wardrobes?

Thanks in advance for any pointers

 

[Jasonb]

If you plan to use consealed (kitchen) type hinges then you would be better off with 12mm MDF and 6mm overlayed frames as much thicker and there are clearance issues between door & carcase.

Normal PVA or Alphatic resin (Titebond) glues will be fine just make sure the doors are laid on a completely flat surface until the glue is fully set.

I have used this method several times with veneered MDF and solid wood glued on fot the styles & rails with no warping problems.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted Furniture/Wendy1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted Furniture/wendy3.jpg

You should get the accuracy provided the operator knows what he is doing, best to avoid the sheds though

Jason

 

[hermes]

These boxes are made from 2 layers of 9mm mdf to give a shaker effect. The strips are chamfered before gluing and pinning with ordinary pva. Never get any warping.

http://www.seatandtidy.co.uk/large_painted.html

 

[DH05]

Jason and Hermes,

Just what I wanted to know. Thanks. So 12mm MDF with 6mm framing is stiff enough for the full size doors in Jason's photo? Your photo is essentially what I'm trying to achieve. Thanks also for the advice on hinges. I've heard about such limitations, but don't know about how hinges are technically specified. Any place I should look to learn about the capabilities and limitations of concealed hinges? I need one door to open a full 180 degrees. Is that possible with concealed hinges?

Lastly, any advice on carcase design and assembly? Any good books or websites? I assume there is a tried and tested way that all the professionals use.

 

[Jasonb]

12mm + 6mm will be fine for full height doors.

180 degree opening is no problem, have a look on this site for whats available, especially the 4 page technical guide, come back if you have any queries.

Carcases can just be a box of MFC (conti board, melamine faced chipboard) with fixed or adjustable shelves etc. this should give an idea of what you can achieve.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v156/...niture/?action=view&current=EnidWardrobe3.jpg

Jason

 

[DH05]

Jason, in your reply you make reference to "this site" as if you are providing a link to a site with a technical guide for hinges. Did you forget to include the link?

 

[Jasonb]

Well spotted, should be

http://www.woodfit.com/index.php?cPath=114&Name=Hinges

Jason

 

[DH05]

thanks

 

[pomfrs]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted Furniture/Wendy1.jpg

Hi JasonB,

These look fantastic! I'm building something similar and really like the materials you've used. Would you be able to tell me if this is a veeneer or solid wood and where can I source something similar?

Thanks,

pomfrs

 

[Jasonb]

The doors are 13mm maple veneered MDF with 96x6mm solid maple glued to the fronts to form the "frame" the edges are then covered with real wood iron on edging to hode the joint.

The veneered MDF is availabl efrom any decent panel supplier, if you con't have facilities to machine the maple yourself then a local joinery workshop should do it for you.

Jason

 

[dilalio]

Hi Jason.

Not sure if the thread you contributed to is too old, but I liked your work and could do with some advice. I do all sorts of interior refurb work and have built a number of storage solutions, but I'm not a chippie/cabinet maker by trade and am always looking to fine tune my skills, whist remaining practical and economical for the job in hand. As such, I want to learn more about the best way to build a current fitted wardrobe I have at hand. Do you have any drawings you could send me, detailing how you go about dealing with a typical installation into a non-square corner? i.e. dealing with scribing into walls to pitch off square and plumb and building in a plinth/base while retaining max space inside the units... I'm interested in the planning rather than the finished look.

Anything you could put forth would be of interest.

rgds,
deano.

If you plan to use consealed (kitchen) type hinges then you would be better off with 12mm MDF and 6mm overlayed frames as much thicker and there are clearance issues between door & carcase.

Normal PVA or Alphatic resin (Titebond) glues will be fine just make sure the doors are laid on a completely flat surface until the glue is fully set.

I have used this method several times with veneered MDF and solid wood glued on fot the styles & rails with no warping problems.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted Furniture/Wendy1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted Furniture/wendy3.jpg

You should get the accuracy provided the operator knows what he is doing, best to avoid the sheds though

Jason