Door lining question

S

snadge

ive realised that when i plasterboard the wall with the other door on in kitchen that the lining is gunna have to be replaced...as the board wont run flush to the lining - i was thinking I could add a 10x30mm piece of wood all way around for the board to run into and re-hang the door 10mm forward on the new bit of wood and move the stopper forward 10mm (or add more wood 10mm)

is this "adding strips of wood" a viable solution?

thanks for the help guys
 
Sponsored Links
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
is this "adding strips of wood" a viable solution?
thanks for the help guys

Yes but it will be visible unless you fill the join. Re-hanging the door will create a lot of work as you will need to reposition the door jamb or add another bit of wood. You say 10mm, does that mean you’ve used 9.5mm plasterboard on the walls? 9.5mm PB should only be used on ceilings, 12.5mm is what you should use &, increasingy, 12.5mm is now used for ceilings as well.
 
S

snadge

yeah 9.5mm - why should i use 12mm?
current lining is 140mm
 
Sponsored Links
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
yeah 9.5mm - why should i use 12mm?
Because 9.5 is intended for ceilings, is too thin for walls & is not really suitable for dot & dab (if that's what you’ve done). It can also distort both during & after installation, especially at joins & its lot more easily damaged.

I would never use 9.5mm on walls & don’t know any other spread who would. I always use 12.5mm &, as I said, most (including me) use 12.5mm for ceilings as well; only possible exception would be when over boarding & weight is a consideration.

Nothing to do now except wait & see what happens.
 
S

snadge

so what about the door then? would a new lining be best?

thanks for the plasterboard tip too.. :)
can dot&dabbed boards be plastered and then painted>?
 
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
In all honesty that's the route I would take. A standard lining kit may not fit however but it’s fairly easy to make up your own, just a tad more expensive. Be carefull not to disturb things removing the old lining, it should really be stripped out first.
 
S

snadge

In all honesty that's the route I would take. A standard lining kit may not fit however but it’s fairly easy to make up your own, just a tad more expensive. Be carefull not to disturb things removing the old lining, it should really be stripped out first.

so I just buy my own timber... ok

P.S. thanks for the tips about the plasterboard.. :)

can I ask... how much gap between wall n board does dot&dab usually leave or is supposed to? I know it depends on how much you apply adhesive and pressure to board but whats recommended? reason I ask is cos SHE wants exact measurements of finished room so she can get kitchen designed online then apply for it on credit too see if she can get it... i know we should wait until its done but she wants everything done tomorrow like all bloody wimmin

thanks
 
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
how much gap between wall n board does dot&dab usually leave or is supposed to?
Depends on the condition of the wall really. If there are lumps & bumps all over it, you obviously have to board out to the highest point; the adhesive dabs can also be used to true up a wall, within limits. If it’s fairly straight or new blockwork, I like to board it nice & tight as it doesn’t sound so hollow when tapped.

reason I ask is cos SHE wants exact measurements of finished room so she can get kitchen designed online then apply for it on credit too see if she can get it... i know we should wait until its done but she wants everything done tomorrow like all bloody wimmin
I wouldn’t entertain that, a recipe for disaster. I wouldn’t dab out too much & how much are you going to allow for plaster, assuming your having it skimmed!
 
H

holmslaw

There's no need to replace the lining.

Fit your 10x30 battens, set them back from the lining to make a feature - say 10mm. Then replace the hinges by parliament hinges, these will allow the door to fully open.
View media item 25770
Edit - spellin
 
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
Fit your 10x30 batons, set them back from the lining to make a feature - say 10mm.
Maybe I have misunderstood you but how can you set the “battens back” :confused: The whole point is to extend the door lining out to cover the edge of the PB & allow the architrave to be fitted? Or are you saying fit the battens to act as a pseudo architrave :?:

I’d be interested to see a sketch (or even better a photo) of such a “feature”. ;)
 
H

holmslaw

Of course it's my solution. :LOL:

Thats how I make a living, sorting out problems for contractors that can't be solved by Wickes 'how to do it' leaflets.
 
S

snadge

thats exactly what I said i was gunna do?

whats a "parliament hinge" and purpose of it?

my original plan was to add the 10ml wood (batten) around and bring the door 10ml forward and move the stopper 10ml forward or add another 10ml to that ...which is exactly what your diagram shows...doesnt it? please correct me if im missing something
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links

Similar threads

Top