Drilling under a consumer unit?

[ian_uk1975]

I want to put some coat hooks up just inside my front door. Unfortunately (Sod's Law), the consumer unit is directly above where I would need to drill the 2 mounting holes for the row of coat hooks I've purchased. I've tried one of those cheap voltage detectors to try and ascertain where the cable(s) are running behind the plasterboard, but it's worse than useless (can you say inconsistent?!).

What is 'best practice' when wanting to drill in an area such as this? Is the rule of thumb simply 'don't do it', or would a basic knowledge of wiring standards mitigate the risk by being able to deduce where the cables would've been laid?

My Dad drilled into a main power cable years ago, so has first hand experience of what it's like to drill through a live cable... almightly bang, melted drill bit, flame from wall and singed eyebrows... not an experience I want to share!

If it helps, my house was built in the mid-90's.

Cheers,
Ian.

 

[Adam_151]

well you want to drill in a 'safe zone' that is a zone where cables can be routed without protection because they can reasonably be expected to be there.

You have to work out whether any do run there or not

do they *all* possibly run some other way that you can check for them at?
can you open cu and see which way they leave? etc, no easy magic way i'm afaid

 

[ian_uk1975]

well you want to drill in a 'safe zone' that is a zone where cables can be routed without protection because they can reasonably be expected to be there.

You have to work out whether any do run there or not

do they *all* possibly run some other way that you can check for them at?
can you open cu and see which way they leave? etc, no easy magic way i'm afaid

Yea, my Sister's b/f (who used to run a property maintenance business) suggested taking the cover off the consumer unit to verify the cable routing. Don't you just hate it when the proverbial '5 minute job' turns into a saga?!

Cheers,
Ian.

 

[Maxxy]

How about using a horizontal piece of wood as a backing plate? Longer than the consumer unit, so you dont drill the mounting holes directly under the unit, and then mount the coat hook to that. Decorative bit of wood make a feature out of it, or paint it the same colour as your walls

 

[ian_uk1975]

How about using a horizontal piece of wood as a backing plate? Longer than the consumer unit, so you dont drill the mounting holes directly under the unit, and then mount the coat hook to that. Decorative bit of wood make a feature out of it, or paint it the same colour as your walls

Yep, exactly what my Dad suggested when I spoke to him about this over the weekend. Sorry for the ignorant question, but can you buy strips of wood like that with profiled edges? I don't own a router to make my own.

Cheers,
Ian.

 

[davy_owen_88]

You could always use an adhesive like No-nails etc...

Davy

 

[Maxxy]

Yeah, pop down your local big DIY or wood store, should have a huge range of styles. Might have to get it trimmed down, but they will prob do that there if you ask them

 

[ian_uk1975]

You could always use an adhesive like No-nails etc...

Davy

Ah, hadn't thought of that. Only trouble is, an adhesive is only as strong as the adhesion of the underlying paint and plaster to the wall. Wouldn't want the weight of 3 or 4 heavy coats to tear away a chunk of plaster!

Cheers,
Ian.

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Yeah, pop down your local big DIY or wood store, should have a huge range of styles. Might have to get it trimmed down, but they will prob do that there if you ask them

Thanks Maxxy.

 

[RF Lighting]

I assume you have a coat hook thingy like this?

Assuming you have dot and dab walls (which is likely for a huose of that age) you could very carefully remove a bit of plasterboard from the wall, and if you can see the blockwork you will know there is no cable where your fixings will be. Your coat hook backing plate will cover the plasterboard you have removed.

Do you have solid or hollow floors?

 

[lancenotalot]

Use a cross head screw driver to make the holes,you have better control then and won't have enough power to go through the cables,just the right size for plaster plugs too,would still use some no more nails on the back though just to be sure!

 

[securespark]

If it's 90's, won't it be timber-framed, and therefore hollow wall, even on external walls?

 

[bernardgreen]

Yep, exactly what my Dad suggested when I spoke to him about this over the weekend. Sorry for the ignorant question, but can you buy strips of wood like that with profiled edges? I don't own a router to make my own.
Cheers,
Ian.

A drawer front from self assembly kitchen parts may fit the bill.

 

[Softus]

...an adhesive is only as strong as the adhesion of the underlying paint and plaster to the wall.

Correct.

Wouldn't want the weight of 3 or 4 heavy coats to tear away a chunk of plaster!

Best not rely on any type of glue or gripfix then.