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drimaster HEAT wiring

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by sha256, 9 Jan 2016.

  1. sha256

    sha256

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    Hi,

    I want to wire up a drimaster HEAT with the ability to isolate either the fan and heater or just the heater.

    [​IMG]

    I am thinking of adding 2 x 3-pole isolaters; one between the supply and the fuse box, and another between the fuse box and the heater. Is this the proper way to do it ? My only grudge is that I will have two isolaters and I would rather just one.

    Also, since the heater is 500W, will it be okay to pull the live feed from the lighting circuit ? I intend to use 1.5mm for the wiring.
     
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  3. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    It may be just your drawing but - you must not switch the earth.
     
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  4. Iggifer

    Iggifer

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    Use a grid switch with 2 x DP 20A switches? Two isolators in one faceplate that way (assuming they are fed from the same circuit)
     
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  5. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    I have just read the installation manual. It is essential that you configure the wiring so that it is not possible to have the heater on without the fan.

    The unit is 500W max so it will be ok to use the lighting circuit providing the lighting circuit is not already heavily loaded. You will have to add up the existing wattage to find out. The manufacturers also specify a 3A fuse be fitted in the supply.

    If the cables are to be buried in a wall they will require 30mA RCD protection.

    I would use a grid setup as suggested above, with a fuse module and 2 20A double pole switch modules all in a 3 gang plate. I would also have a neon in the heater switch.

    See attached wiring diagram:
    Heatfan.png
     
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  6. sha256

    sha256

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    Thanks for the informative replies guys.

    Thanks for the diagram. After Iggifer mentioned grid switches, I was already looking into DPs and was planning on doing something like that but also add a light DP to that.

    You mentioned the RCD if the cable is buried; what if I run the cable down the same path where one of the lighting switches is run ? I plan on getting rid of the single gang light switch and just replace with it a grid switch (with DPs for light, fan, heat(+neon) and fuse).
     
  7. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    That's fine to put it all in one 4 gang grid switch, it's what I have done home here but with a wall mounted heater and light switches. You will likely only need a 1way or 2way switch module for the light which will be much cheaper than a 20A DP module.

    If the cables are concealed inside the wall (i.e. not in surface trunking) either plastered over or inside a stud wall for example, then RCD protection is required. There are a few exceptions to this rule but it is unlikely you will meet the requirements for them.
     
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  8. sha256

    sha256

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    Cool; may need to get an electrician in for that bit; never done an RCD before. How would I get the T&E from the attic to the CU anyway ?
     
  9. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    Would you need to? If the loading on your upstairs ligting circuit allows you to connect your unit to that circuit all you have to do is provide RCD protection for the upstairs lights. It would be a good idea to get an electrician to fit the RCD protection as several tests will need to be carried out after. A photo of your fusebox/consumer unit etc would be useful.
     
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  11. sha256

    sha256

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    Oh, right. I think that is already done; if by that you mean there is an MCB/RCD in the CU which you can pop to isolate the upstairs lighting, then yes, that's already in place.
     

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  12. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    That's an old Wylex fuseboard, not seen one in that design before. You only have RCD protection on the shower circuit. It would be straightforward for an electrician to do though.
     
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  13. sha256

    sha256

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    Yeh, all the sparks say that. I'll get a sparky in for the job. What's the need for the RCD and why won't the current setup suffice ?
     
  14. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    All newly installed wiring should meet the current wiring regulations which requires this. As far as I am aware the RCD protection for all cables buried inside walls was added because someone put a screw through a hidden cable in a wall and someone else died as a result.
     
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  15. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    I am a bit curious about that shower unit wiring. I do not see any current protection on it, only the RCD. So where is the MCB for the shower?

    I'm guessing that the length of white 10mm² T&E is the feed from the brown Wylex at the top to the white Wylex board at the bottom.
     
  16. Adam_151

    Adam_151

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    Looks to me like the left most MCB on the 6 way board is 45A, so I'd hazard a guess its from there, board is unlikely to be suitable for a 45A circuit

    It certainly wouldn't be the first time though, that someones added a shower circuit with RCD but no over-current protetcion!!
     
  17. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    I don't think so. I see meter tails going in to the top of the RCD box. So I am supposing that is the feed.
    The 45A I believe is the feed for the 3-way Wylex.
    Maybe the OP can confirm. Certainly something for his electrician to look at, while he is there.
     
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