Dry Lining Sandstone Walls

tiz

Joined
5 Jan 2007
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Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
My house has solid sandstone rubble-filled walls. The through-stones can be particularly porous to external rain. Also, there is no damp proof course and the bottom 1.5m suffers from rising damp. Most walls will be block lined. However, due to space limitations, some walls will be dry-lined. I intend to insulate all external walls using 60mm of polyurethane (PU)insulation, but I will retain the thermal mass of the internal walls.

Does anyone have any views/experience on which dry lining systems work best (to avoid damp and condensation)?

  • Duplex (foil lined) plasterboard, PU and battens
  • Duplex (foil lined) plasterboard, PU and dot and dab
  • Moisture Resistant plasterboard, vapour membrane, PU and dot and dab
  • Moisture Resistant plasterboard, vapour membrane, PU and battens
  • etc.
 
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im a plumber so take what i say wiv a lirrl (ahem) consideration

worked on a barn conv in peak dist last summer... limestone so not porous like sandstone. also rubble backfilled.

other builder chappies tanked part of the barn below adjacent rising road level with a rubber type sheeting offa roll and used what i can only suggest was a bituminous type albeit vulcanising resin to weld the sheeting and simultaneously bond it to the walls. whatever it was was specifically desigend to tank out the walls to the dpc under the (later laid) screeded floor.

your local builders merchant should be able to offer appt advice if there a number of similar buildings in ur area.

I think the intentions were to stud out the internal walls using spax and use a bituminous paint/resin compound to seal the fixing points on the studwork wherever fixings passed thru the rubber sheeting. I think that I am correct in stating that u should try to maintain a 50mm gap between the stone and the plasterboard.

take more advice.. I will watch this post too... interesting!!!!
 
4 got to mention... u might want to consider "kingspan" sheet insulation to wedge in between the timber studwork. It is usually 50mm thick and offers additional insulation.. has a double sided foil coated barrier. U have to maintain a 50mm cavity thoough... makes the room dimensions shrink a wee bit but better that huuuuuuuge energy bills...
 
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hell fire!!! i'm dopey... if you maintain a 50mm cavity between the stone and the studwork.... then u can use standard plasterboard... The guy i installed the 1st fix and thereafter plumbing for was anally retentive and had local building regs in at every opportunity to check out and advise on work as it progressed.
 

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