Drylining

[MikeJM]

Advice please from you plastering pro`s.
I cant find the info I want after several searches even though my questions seem fairly basic.
I`m building a simple stud partition wall with a doorway across my internal garage and lining the other three walls with plasterboard before having them and the existing ceiling skimmed by a plasterer to give a finish that will be ok for painting or papering.
What are pros and cons of taper edge v square edge board?
The walls are standard block cavity and one of the walls will be battened to stand off from cables on the wall. The other two will be dot & dab.
Any tips, dos & donts on these or anything gratefully received?
Thanks
Mike

 

[ColJack]

you want square edge if you're skiming them.. taper edge is for taping and jointing..

as it's a garage have you designed with fire rating etc in mind?
what about insulation? garages don't tend to be insulated..

 

[dextrous]

It makes no difference whether you use taper or square edge board if they're going to be skimmed. Some may say that skimming over taper edge will give a stronger joint due to the thicker layer of plasterboard, but I see no appreciable difference.

As ColJack refers to, what is the purpose of plastering the walls? Do you intend to make it, or part of it, habitable. If so, then fire protection from the remaining area (there's petrol in cars )will be an issue, as will the use of insulation.

Also, if you intend to install a new doorway from the main house into this area, then building control need to be involved. If you are nor doing so, but creating an inner sanctum, then the door will need to be fire rated anyway, plus of course there are issues relating to means of escape from within this room should a fire break out in the garaged area.

Think you need to specify your plans with a bit more detail and check for its viability on the building regs forum. A simple sketch using mspaint will do the trick

 

[Richard C]

Don't jsut dry line a single skin, external wall with ordinary wallboard, it will be doomed to failure.
Read this;

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=185903&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

& this
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1281266#1281266
& come back if you need to.

 

[MikeJM]

Thanks for the response`s guys, sorry i havent had time to get back before now.
As suggested, ms paint drg attached of my proposal to convert part of my garage to a dining room.
The building is a bungalow with the roof and insulated loft space covering the integral garage as well as the living areas. Outside walls are cavity with insulation. The local council bldg control people tell me verbally that it is unlikely i will need a fire door but the room insulation/thermal values etc would have to meet req`d levels. I am submitting their form for approval etc when i have costed it out fully. It seem they base their fee on the cost of the work being done.
Grateful for any feedback.
Thanks
Mike

 

[MikeJM]

 

[MikeJM]

doh

 

[ColJack]

How To upload a photo / picture

 

[Alastairreid]

sorry about this but havent used ms paint for years and i cant seem to get my drg to upload. any tips?

View media item 13405
save you the bother

 

[Richard C]

To answer your original question; from a plasterer’s viewpoint, personally, I would much rather see square edge boards that taper edge. Taper boards means I’ve got to mess around filling out all the tapers first before I can get on & skim; more work & time for me so higher cost to you. Use taper edge for tape & fill (without skimming), square edge if you intend to finish skim; it’s what they were designed for. The extra plaster over taper edge will make no difference to its strength.

I doubt very much a conventional, single stud wall across the garage will meet Building Regulation thermal insulation requirements. This wall will be regarded as external due to the original garage door which effectively leaves it external to the main dwelling. The access door will also have to be external grade but am unsure if it will need to be a fire door, it depends on what you intend to store in there, you should seek clarity from LABC.

If it does turn out to be possible to use a stud wall, use Duplex (foil back) on the dining room side & Moisture Resistant on the garage store side; if you propose to plaster the garage side, MR board must be primed first.

 

[MikeJM]

After a site inspection my LABC advise the main criteria the conversion will need to meet is thermal insulation values.
What is the best material to use for insulating the stud wall cavity without spending a fortune? How does polystyrene sheeting fare for this? This and the roll/slabs of rockwool type insulation seem to be the only stuff i can get in thickness` that will fill the cavity of 100mm wide.
I`m using 100x50mm timber for the frame.
Any suggestions welcome.
Mike

 

[trowelmonkey1]

so LABC gave you no guidelines as to what level of insulation? helpful!

could look at something like:

http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/tw55.htm

 

[Alastairreid]

150mm mineral wool between studs with 12.5mm duplex p/board to finish.

http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...ories/gyproc_fire/gyproc_fireline_duplex.aspx

 

[trowelmonkey1]

Hi Alastair!

Is 150mm wool standard for this kind of wall? is that better performing than the kingspan stuff? or just much cheaper and adequate?

Duplex board has a vapour control layer on the back doesn't it?

just for my personal knowledge bank you understand

 

[Alastairreid]

hi trowelmonkey!

this is the stuff we use from spec to achieve our u values on the kit extensions we are currently working on.

the duplex has a built in vcl.

glass wool is normally the method used for insulating the kit walls as opposed to rigid insulation which would be incorporated into the p/b sheets anyway.

glasswool is inexpensive in comparison to rigid insulation boards.