Ecotec Boiler is tripping the electrics

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Hi, I have Vaillant Ecotec 831 plus. When I turn the boiler on, within 10 seconds the fuse box gets tripped and the electricity turns off downstairs. I've previously fixed the diverter valve twice, 8 months ago and 3 years ago. Saw F75 error yesterday and assumed valve might have broken again. Today the boiler started to trip the electrics which it never did before. I can't see a water leak from underneath the valve at all. Have spotted a tiny amount of water near the pump area though. Also spotted water leaking from the right side of the boiler, towards the back.

At the bottom of the pump itself it's all frothy and scummy, like a scuzzy kind of foam. Almost looks like someone sprayed a thin layer of shaving cream on the bottom of the pump. I don't know if this is natural build up over time, or is it a sign of pump failure and could be what's causing the electricity to trip out? Researching earlier I read that pump seals can cause electricity to trip?

Extra info: I know I need to replace my heat exchanger too as the hot water goes hot, cold, hot when first turning on the tap. And I think I might have to work on or replace the expansion vessel because I had to get the pressure quite high for the boiler to run properly (about 2.0 bar). Could those two issues play a part in this new problem with the electrics shutting off?
 
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Could be a leak getting into an electrical component which only tries to start a few seconds after power is applied, or it could be another electrical component with a fault, such as the fan. Either way, these boilers are not suitable for DIY work - the casing forms the safety room seal and should only be removed and refitted by someone who is Gas Safe Registered. Regulation 26.9 checks need to be completed before the boiler is put back into operation. Forum rules prevent us from advising you on any work carried out within the sealed chamber.
 
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Could be a leak getting into an electrical component which only tries to start a few seconds after power is applied, or it could be another electrical component with a fault, such as the fan. Either way, these boilers are not suitable for DIY work - the casing forms the safety room seal and should only be removed and refitted by someone who is Gas Safe Registered. Regulation 26.9 checks need to be completed before the boiler is put back into operation. Forum rules prevent us from advising you on any work carried out within the sealed chamber.

Ok thanks for the info. I was reluctantly considering an engineer for this particular issue because of the electrical safety aspect too. But was hoping that maybe it was something I could fix myself for the cost savings. Just wondering.. Do you think by not changing the heat exchanger it's creating other issues in the boiler? The hot water tap problem with temp going hot, cold, hot was something I've had for over 6 months but I've experienced the same effect a few times before in different people's houses over the years that it didn't concern me. But it only recently became slower and now it's more like hot, cold, hot, cold, hot.
 
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A blocked plate heat exchanger could certainly cause a fluctuating hot water temperature. If you're getting F.75 as well it could indicate a dirty system
 
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get a fixed price repair, you will be chasing your own erse if you try to save money , and will cost you more in the long run

I'll probably have to get it repaired I know you're right. Just been browsing different companies around West London to call.

A blocked plate heat exchanger could certainly cause a fluctuating hot water temperature. If you're getting F.75 as well it could indicate a dirty system

Thanks for the info. I gave it another try and noticed the following

* boiler turns on and the digital display is visible,
* then the diverter valve does the initial open/close operation (which it always does when boiler is switched on),
* but the moment the burner is supposed to fire up the boiler shuts down immediately and trips out the fuse box.

Not sure if that gives any clues as to what could be causing the issue? I've been wondering out of interest, would an engineer be able to figure out which part is causing the electrical fault without switching out all the parts and having to use a process of elimination?
 
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As Ian suggests, go with a Vaillant Fixed Price Repair. They'll charge you a set rate of £285 to diagnose and repair. They'll probably be able to work out which part is causing the issue, but if they get it wrong or more than one part is needed they'll have everything on the van they need, and you'll only ever pay that set price.
 
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As Ian suggests, go with a Vaillant Fixed Price Repair. They'll charge you a set rate of £285 to diagnose and repair. They'll probably be able to work out which part is causing the issue, but if they get it wrong or more than one part is needed they'll have everything on the van they need, and you'll only ever pay that set price.

Thanks for the link. I was just about to book, it seemed a fair price to get the complete repair done but then I noticed that it says "all parts are included except the heat exchanger and the expansion vessel." Those are the two parts which I'm pretty sure need attention or replacing. So that £285 wont cover those parts, only the one producing the electrical fault. Do you think it's worth it or is there perhaps a more economical option?

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Neither the heat exchanger or the expansion vessel would cause your electrics to trip
 
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Neither the heat exchanger or the expansion vessel would cause your electrics to trip

I mentioned in the first post that I think heat exchanger is faulty because of fluctuating temps. When turning on a hot water tap it goes hot and cold a few times around, until it finally settles on hot after about 15 seconds. And prior to the electrics tripping, i needed to pressurise boiler to about bar 2.0 for it to work properly so i think that might be an issue with the expansion vessel. So £285 sounds expensive for a half-fixed boiler. Also do we know for sure that the failing heat exchanger isn't somehow effecting the part that's causing the electrics to trip?
 
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I mentioned in the first post that I think heat exchanger is faulty because of fluctuating temps. When turning on a hot water tap it goes hot and cold a few times around, until it finally settles on hot after about 15 seconds. And prior to the electrics tripping, i needed to pressurise boiler to about bar 2.0 for it to work properly so i think that might be an issue with the expansion vessel. So £285 sounds expensive for a half-fixed boiler. Also do we know for sure that the failing heat exchanger isn't somehow effecting the part that's causing the electrics to trip?
Well just keep changing parts then, but it is not the heat exchanger
 

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I needed to pressurise boiler to about bar 2.0 for it to work properly so i think that might be an issue with the expansion vessel.

Highly doubt it,but keep questioning free expert advice (y)
 
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Well just keep changing parts then, but it is not the heat exchanger

Rather avoid keep changing parts but I don't know how the engineer would determine what the faulty part is.. any ideas? Maybe if it's the pump or the air vent behind the pump leaking, causing the thing to trip
 

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