Engineered Floor moving/making noises on fibreboard underlay.

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by jimjones235, 7 Oct 2019.

  1. jimjones235

    jimjones235

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    I've just installed an Engineered oak floor (click loc 14mm) over a concrete subfloor, with a vapour barrier and fibreboard underlay. The subfloor has wet underfloor heating (although I've not had the underfloor heating on since installing).

    The subfloor had a few areas which needed levelling compound (which I did) but overall was in good order (after I removed some tiles), there are still a couple of areas which aren't perfectly flat (it runs downwards towards one corner of the room), but they are within the manufactures tolerances (of 2mm over a metre). I didn't use levelling compound on these as quite simply over such a large area I know I wouldn't have been able to get it much flatter than it already is..

    I have a couple of issue, firstly there are a few areas where there is excessive movement (not just at the low spots), this isn't an expansion issue (there is a good gap all the way around, skirtings are remove (and there is plenty of extra room for expansion under the plasterboard walls) and no pinch points, it's like the floor is just riding up by a couple of mil in quite a few places.

    Secondly, the whole floor feels a bit spongy, and if you stand on a joint with the ball of your foot it crunches/crackles..

    So my questions are, does it need sometime to settle after installing? Will the cruching/cracking calm down after it's been installed for a while?

    Is the fibreboard the issue here, like it's too soft and is giving hence the spongyness. It also feels to me like the fibreboard might be magnifying any issues with the subfloor (it was a smooth even surface, but I thought the fibreboard would help with any minor imperfections, but it seems to be doing the opposite - like a magnified seesaw). Will that lessen as the fibreboard compresses?

    I'd hate to lift it all, and my feeling is to wait a while and see if it settles, but I'm at a crunch point, as I need to continue with skirtings and other jobs (fitting a fire hearth which will overhang the floor making lifting it a pain in the backside), and ultimately I'm not sure what I'd do even if I did lift it, don't think I'd get the sub floor much leveller, and even if I could I don't think that would do anything for the spongy/crunchy issue. I could try different underlay, but I don't want to do that if it's going to make it worse. Added to that the end joints on the click lock don't seem to like being pulled apart (or is there a knack I'm missing)? So any suggestions welcomely received...
     
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  3. foxhole

    foxhole

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  4. jimjones235

    jimjones235

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    Fair point, but I was looking for 5mm underlay (I was paranoid about the subfloor - which in hindsight might be ironic as I'm now thinking the fibreboard has caused the exact problem I was trying avoid), the manufacturers tell me that these fibreboards have an r-value of 0.07 (admittedly that's double the rating of the link you provided) and are suitable for going over underfloor heating ..
     
  5. Keithmac

    Keithmac

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    What make of floor is it?, when I was looking for ours there was some questionable locking systems.

    Went with QuickStep floor in the end.

    Ours is on 5mm fibreboard tiles with no issues so I don't think that would be your problem.
     
  6. dazlight

    dazlight

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    Don’t understand anyone using these cheap underlays. Fibre boards . XPS boards and foam are all a rubbish with wood and laminate. All noisy under footfall.

    Had customers say to me fibreboards are good for unlevel floors. No them aren’t.

    Only underlay we use now is Timbermate excel. Best out there. Can you tell the different when you walk on it.
     
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  8. dazlight

    dazlight

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    Good choice Keith on Quickstep. Best Laminate on the market imo
     
  9. jimjones235

    jimjones235

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    The more I've pondered, the more I imagine that fibreboard are ok for flattening rough surfaces, but rubbish on unlevel surfaces.. seesaw effect..

    Starting to think lifting them is the best option, a little intrepid about the short end joints, but probably get it done in a day..
     
  10. dazlight

    dazlight

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    Best to mate for the long run of the life of the floor.
     
  11. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    agree with Timbermate underlay recommendation although over UFH we specify Duralay Heatflow for Wood floors as the tog rating is more thermally efficient.

    The floor maybe cracking/noisy if its manufactured poorly, the strength and integrity of the joints on cheap engineered floors is often questionable.
     
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