Exposed wires - downlight

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Ok, so I've wired everything up (see photo) but that light is not coming on. There was two neutral and two live wires (left side of the box) which were difficult to securely fasten in, could one of these be a loose connection?
 

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which were difficult to securely fasten in,
You have made it rather difficult by using that ridiculous tiny box - looks like it was removed from one of those cheap-o-matic light fittings from a DIY shed.

Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p49007 will be much easier, and will also allow the cables to be fitted properly - the idea being that the grey outer covering is all that's visible outside of the box, the individual coloured cores are fully inside the enclosure.

As for the light - other than loose connections, other things include the transformer failing, the lamp broken, or the lampholder being overheated and worn out.
 
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You have made it rather difficult by using that ridiculous tiny box - looks like it was removed from one of those cheap-o-matic light fittings from a DIY shed.

Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p49007 will be much easier, and will also allow the cables to be fitted properly - the idea being that the grey outer covering is all that's visible outside of the box, the individual coloured cores are fully inside the enclosure.

As for the light - other than loose connections, other things include the transformer failing, the lamp broken, or the lampholder being overheated and worn out.

Ha, well I admit it was bloody awkward to fit. Had to send the kids downstairs so they couldn't hear my swearing :)

Cheers for the link, will go on a hunt for one of those boxes tomorrow
 
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The outer sheaf of cables should enter the enclosure as well as the Earth connection.
I am sure its a BS requirement 526.
Get a Hagar J804 box
 
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Your right what you say, but sometimes 12 volt downlights or G5.3 lampholders are marked 50V (6A)
Totally agree. First time I encountered lamps marked 50V 4.3A I wondered why any one would need 1.7KW of lights in their dining room and I thought I'd found the reason the 5A MCB kept tripping.
 
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Your right what you say, but sometimes 12 volt downlights or G5.3 lampholders are marked 50V (6A)

These for example are rated 25V 5A
http://sinolec.co.uk/en/low-voltage...ders/1211436-g53-gx53-ceramic-lampholder.html
That's a lamp holder. You'd expect that to be marked with the maximum voltage and current it is rated for, but those markings are no more use for determining what the operating voltage of an installed one is than the speed rating on a tyre is for telling you how fast the car it's fitted to will go. The U0 rating of 6242Y cable does not mean that you have a 300V single-phase supply to your house.

Re the first part of your reply, are you (and Sunray):
First time I encountered lamps marked 50V 4.3A ...
saying that you've encountered one of these:

upload_2018-9-17_10-51-23.png


which actually was a 12V lamp, but was marked 50V?
 
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No i have not seen a 50 v lamp , when I posted I was not aware anyone mentioned a lamp only yourself, i assumed ( maybe wrongly) the op had read 50v elsewhere on the Fitting,
I am a bit baffled by Sunrays post, maybe he has a different definition of "lamp". sorry for the confusion
 
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It was my typo, I said the lamp was 50v, when it's 12v 50watts.

All sorted now thanks for your help. These halogen lamps run incredibly hot, even after a minute or so. Can see why it can be a fire risk. I thought about switching to LEDs bulbs but apparently that might require a change to the transformer. So a replace of downlights altogether seems like the best option, fitted by a qualified electrician!
 
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Few tend to use 50w lamps nowadays, as you have individual Transformers you can use 20w or 35w till you change.
The most common fault is as you encountered, people push the lamp in and it rests on something, usually like in your case a poorly installed Connecter block or cabling
 

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