Extending a ring main (again!)

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Many thanks to everybody's posts on extending the ring main, It is now much clearer what I need to do... remove one set of cables from socket A and forward these to the new section of ring, and return from the last socket of the new section back to the original socket.

This is fairly straight forward if you can trace the cables and run new cables, but I have solid walls and solid floor and no idea how the cabling is arranged, so what options do I have?

1. Find a junction box that matches the sockets that are installed.
  • I can find white ones and external ones, even round ones but no georgian brass type, can anyone direct me please?
2. Use crimps to connect the cables inside the existing back box.
Thanks for all your help and advice - this site is a valuable resource for anyone doing DIY.

Mr.Ped
 
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Find a junction box that matches the sockets that are installed.
Not likely to either - they tend to hide under floors or in ceilings and when they aren't connected correctly they get hot and set light to houses which is one of the reasons they are no longer to IEE regs for ring mains. Some one else suggested in a previous post
you could put an additional socket(s)....... below or next to the existing (in fact anywhere as long as the (existing) cable you need to joint will reach and you can make it look presentable) -use it to joint your cables. Solved the joint problem and gained extra sockets. Bonus!
Finding matching sockets shouldn't be too hard?

Are these crimps similar to those that you would use to fit your car stereo? ......
Like these but you'll need the blue straight through ones for the earth, and yellow straight through ones for the live and neutral. Don't look like screwfix stock the yellow ones, but RS, Halfords or your local electrical wholesaler should.

People have mentioned a "calibrated crimp tool" - is this the ratchet tool that I already use with these crimps or is it something more specialised?
Many designs of (but not all) ratchet crimpers - yes the same kind of thing you already say you have - are able to be calibrated. The gas board used to insist on their electricians using them.
In general most ratchet crimpers should be suitable provided you check your joints with a little physical tug after crimping. Don't use the nasty pliers type ones they sell in car accessory shops in boxes with a few crimps, as these will not give a suitable connection. Also don't srip the insulation back too far (leaving bare copper) or too short (giving too small a connection.
 

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