Fitting a garden tap

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Hi all
My sister has a garden tap fitted many years ago with the flexi pipe and a 10 minute tap I think they called it, the kind where the isolation tap cuts into the 15mm feed pipe. the problem is her jet wash keeps cutting out which I believe is due to the loss of pressure with the flex feed connection.
I am planning to remove existing tap and pipework and flexi connection and plumb in a new tap with double check valve, isolation valve to the 15mm feed.
the problem is the pipework below where the garden tap pipework is coming into the house.
There are two pairs of 15mm and 22mm pipe work running perpendicular to the boiler 10 inches below where the garden tap pipework comes into house.
The bottom 22mm is the cold feed, I will be teeing of this to 15mm, but what is the best way to connect this to the 15mm tap pipework, ie, as I dont have a pipe bender.
If I solder a 15mm 90 bend at the top to ( garden tap pipework ) and a 15mm 90 degree to the 22x22x15mm tee, is this acceptable, because this will leave a gap between the existing 15mm and 22mm pipework running perpendicular to the fitting and nowhere to fix pipework to the wall.
I will be fitting a Isolator and drain off to the 15mm.
Sorry I havent got any pictures.
The 22 mm is a cold feed, not a flow or return to boiler as it has a 15mm tee off to the cold water to sink tap.

Thank you.
 
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Hi,

I'm not a plumber, so you may want to wait for a pros opinion! :)
I recently changed my garden tap from a screw in hose coupler like yours.
When I removed the coupler, it was totally corroded and blocked with sludge.
I replaced isolators with full bore ones, I used a 22mm double check valve (mounted internally) and a full bore tap on the exterior:
The difference is immense - flow rate has nearly tripled!
If I solder a 15mm 90 bend at the top to ( garden tap pipework ) and a 15mm 90 degree to the 22x22x15mm tee, is this acceptable, because this will leave a gap between the existing 15mm and 22mm pipework running perpendicular to the fitting and nowhere to fix pipework to the wall
Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean, but a combination of 45 degree elbows can get pipework nearly anywhere, neatly! :)

...and it's probably a good idea to insulate the pipes while you are at it!
 
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Provided the existing pipework is pretty solidly fixed, and I assume the pipe going through the wall to the tap is or will be, then the bit in between should be pretty immovable if solder or compression fittings are used. Street elbows may buy you some more room, although I wouldn't recommend having pipes touching each other.

Make sure the pipework is able to be drained downstream of the Isolation Valve.
 
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Thank you all for reply`s, as long as I can get her washing machine back in with no obstructions all should be fine.
pipework .jpg
 

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