Fitting shelves onto a dry lined wall

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Can anyone advise of the best fixings to fit shelves onto a dry lined wall where there is a 10 ml gap between the plasterboard and the wall behind. I have tried heavy duty hollow wall plazplugs without any joy.
 
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you need all the bigheads now what was on the other day raving about how good drylining was, in 2 words (its crap)
 
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You need to get a fixing into the masonry behind the dry lining. I drilled a 6 mm hole with a masonry bit through the plasterboard and into the blockwork to a depth of about 2 inches. Then I used a small holesaw (about 3/4 inch) to make neat hole in the plasterboard on the same centerline. You then need a spacer to fill the gap between the blockwork and the outer surface of the plasterboard - I used a piece of 1/2in PVC water pipe cut to length. (in your case 10 mm plus the thickness of the plasterboard). This stops the plasterboard being compressed when you tighten up the fixing screws. Then use a standard red plastic wall plug and a 3 inch no. 8 screw to fix the brackets. This works if the bracket is large enough to hide the spacer when it is screwed up to the wall.
 
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You have more than one problem here.
Don't bend the plasterboard too far or you may crack the skim (if there is one).
Dry-lined walls often have lightweight blocks behind the boards. Great for insulation, but lousy for fixing into.
Don't put too much load on the plasterboard or it will break.

Consider using frame fixings especially if the shelves are to support heavy items with large flanges to spread the load.

An alternative method is to measure up and drill your holes where you want them, pump a reasonable amount of plasterboard or 'no-more-nails" type adhesive through the holes to fill the cavity in the area pressure will be applied to the wall, wait for it to cure, and then use long screws with the correct plugs for whatever blocks or bricks your wall is made of.

Don't think anyone said dry lining was good, the discussion was on to skim or not.
On the plus side dry lining is simple to do, fast, cheap, and has better thermal insulating properties than solid plaster. On the negative side, it is a swine to attach heavy stuff to and breaks if you bash it too hard. Regardless of what any of us think of drylining, sarcasm will not hold the shelves up.
 
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Like being on a real building site this. A problem arises, one foolish person (usually the labourer) suggests a half solution and everyone else tells them they are a t**t and for the rest of the day comments on how crap the labourer, the original plans, design, architect are and in their day buildings were built properly are popular. No one offers anything any more helpful and the labourer continues to be called for the rest of the job. Oh by the way, I'm a sparks and have no idea how to fix shelves.
 
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Many thanks for a number of useful (and not so useful) comments. No doubts the discussion will continue.
 
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If you're a sparks, is there any chance you could consider the 3 gang dimmer 2 way switching problem, posted last Sunday.

I'd be interested in your opinion.

Thanks,
 
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I have found a new type of fixing that is made just for dry lined walls. It is called drylinepro and can be found on the internet. Just the job for shelves curtain rails etc.
cheers
Richard
 

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