Flagged path and drainage channels?

13 Sep 2009
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United Kingdom
I've pulled up all block paving and am in process of lowering the front in order to lay a flagged path 20/30mm slate with 2 areas of gravel with some edging. Side path will also be lowered and flagged.
Pic 1. Proposed intentions
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The previous block paving level finished nearly flush with top level of porch! Because i am going lower to get the newer finished level under the dpc, i've created a steeper fall from the pavement level (20mm over 1metre) towards the house.

Question 1 - Do i flag the new path flush with the pavement all leaning towards the house and towards the drain

Question 2 - As above, but also add plastic drainage channels with flags nearest the house leaning away from house, therefore creating a kind of v-shape towards the drainage channels. ( pic 1 above)

The 1st option would look better as no plastic channels. Was hoping to get finished floor level flush with bottom underside of porch lintel although dpc on this wall is lower than that of bay.

Any thoughts on this is much appreciated. Here are further pics:
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A 1:50 fall is not too severe so just lay all flags falling towards the house but then lay the last course of flags falling away from the house by the same or slightly steeper gradient.

With a fall that shallow it won't be that noticable and will look fine.

Obviously you also need to break the fall to either side of the house so half could drain down the side path and the other half into the gulley on the other side.

If however the road and pavement are higher and are going to bring any quantity of water into the drive then you would need to go for linear drains somewhere.

Don't worry about coming nearer the dpc near the door its unavoidable sometimes with steps etc, just do your best to dpm the face of the wall behind the high area
Thanks for advice r896neo. I decided not to use linear drains. Flags nearest house are falling slightly away from house as you say (although not as steep an angle as other flags coming towards house) and leaning slightly towards drain in far corner. This creates a slight u-bend when meeting up with oncoming flags, but water does seem to be running away to drain.

Here are pics in process:
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I got the flags just over a brick in height below dpc around the bay but only about 1in below dpc either side of door step. Maybe i can paint some sort of waterproof membrane on these parts?

The mix ratio i'm using is 6:1 i.e. 4 sharp / 2 building / 1 cement. Thickness of cement varies 30-50mm depending on flag thickness. Seems firm enough to stand on flags 12hrs later although still soft enough to scrap away at the joints. Hope this mix is ok? I've scrapped joints out about 20mm deep ready for pointing later; I presume mortar for the joints should be a stronger mix maybe 3:1?
looks a good job! ideally you want to be further from dpc but your into it now so hope for the best. Mix and depth is all fine. If you do need on them to rake joints try and stand in the centre of the 900x600 or 600 x 600 only and leave it at least 18 hours or 24 is better.

Rake out to 30mm deep. I use 4:1 plastering sand with a splash of sbr
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Someone said silver sand tinted with black works well for grout, with some sort of waterproofer added. Supposedly tints better with the lighter coloured sand.
Struggled to get any lower on dpc as needed to stay a certain height for fall into corner drain
No need for waterproofer a dose of sbr is worth while.

Don't use colouriser in it it will fade badly, if your wnat a colour use a polymeric like rompox or gtfk or use easipoint but you need a aspecial gun for it.
I usually tend to leave a 4" gravel / soak away area rather than paving directly up to the brick/block work. I do this where I am a little close to the DPC and also to reduce spash back from paving to brickwork and potentially through cavity - as you know your going to have muck in their.

Did you take a few bricks out to see if you've got any muck in their - and just rake it out ?

Other than that, the work looks very nice.
I was going to leave an edge of gravel like you say, but thought if i flag right up to the brickwork then the water is more likely to follow along and into drain (which i thought would be better) rather than into gravel soakaway. I previously cleared cavity on bay and put in cavity batt insulation, although pointing still needs to be sorted properly on all brickwork. Couldn't get to cavity either side of door but managed to clear from under doorstep lintel. I'm intending to do as you say (gravel strip) down side alley as the flag height at first bit is as good as touching dpc.

I thought that if i initially flagged right up to brickwork and do get problems, i can always cut 4" back anyway and gravel at later date

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