Framing for shed

[dagsky]

Hi, just a few questions as 3 months later i'm still doing my project!! Ok so when i started making the frames for my shed i used the "BUTT JOINT" technique. I had read that it was the easiest type of framing to do. I also read that a mitred joint is only a little stronger than than a butt joint hence me not going down the mitre route since i barley even know how to do a mitre!!

Anyway the problem i'm finding is that my frames don't feel solid at all!! I've used 2x2 and in each joint i've used a 100mm decking screw and 75mm galvanised nail. When the frame is fully made and you shake it and it still sways from side to side!!

I've been told to try and used triangular strengthning blocks in each corner but i can't find any!!! I've tried to make my own but to no avail!! It was also suggested that i use corner brackets but i tried one and it seemed that the bracket kept bending and not staying at 90degree angle!!

Any solutions??

Oh yes and one more thing that has extremely hampered my progress is that i'm working alone most of the time and have no one to help hold one piece of timber while i join the other. And this is causing me not to be able to join the pieces properly!! Any suggestions wat tool can help me out??

And finally how to i ensure that when i am joing my 2 pieces together, that i am joing them at 90 degrees??

 

[breezer]

And finally how to i ensure that when i am joing my 2 pieces together, that i am joing them at 90 degrees??

from screwfix / shed

 

[Jasonb]

Most stud framing like yours will have verry little strength until the cladding is applied, sheets in the form of ply will be best but shiplap or feather edge boarding will firm it up a lot.

You will also find that once two walls are joined together forming one of your corners, things will start to firm up.

Make your frames up laying flat on the ground, if you have a solid wall, put the ends of your studs against this, then when you push on the screwdriver the pressure will hold the sole plate/head plate in place and the whole thing will not slide away from you.

Jason

 

[nstreet]

Cut triangular pieces from 4mm ply, about 200mm each on the two shortsides and use these to strengthen the corners of the frames . Nail to what will become the inside of the frame.

 

[big-all]

i would be very reluctant to use add any braceing at the corners on the face or back edge as you will have to pad out the whole structure by the same amount to give you a level "face"to work to

as jason says the clading plus the roof forms a solid structure

think of the strength of a carboard box when the top and bottom are open compared to closed

 

[dagsky]

TOP advice chaps!! Ok another question i have is my roof, i've just finished making all the frames and and basically they all the same height. Now i need to have the roof slanting backwards so water runs off the roof. I've thought of a solution to make the front frame higher than the back and that is to add another 3x2 on top of the frame so its higher than the back and then it seems to make an angle. Any ideas how i SHOULD have actually done this to begin with so next time i don't make the same mistake.........

Someone suggested that i make the back frame shorter say the front frame is 1.2m high, i make the back frame 90cm high and this should give me a slope. The thing i wasn't sure about this method is that if i did do it this way then how would i make the 2 side frames?? If they were 1.2x1.2x1.2x1.2 then they would be taller than the back frame!! i'll tey and get some picks so you know what i'm on about.........

 

[Jasonb]

The front & back should have been made different heights and the side frames made with sloping tops and each upright cut to suit.

Jason

 

[big-all]

dont forget tiles and roofing felt need a minimum angles to stop water penetration

if the angle is too shallow water can be driven underneath!!!!!

at least with "green roofing felt" you can seal the joints with a suitable compound and go nearly flat

 

[dagsky]

ok thanks for the tip! Ok one last question, with my shiplap i've cut some pieces like 2-3mm too long and i've already nailed it to the framing. So we've got 1 side where the shiplap is perfect and then the other where 1 piece is longer you get the picture. I tried trimming it down with a jigsaw but its breaking the shiplap, tried a junior hacksaw blade itself but failed!! I'm now thinking should i use a sander to do the trimming for me?? If so should i get an orbital or belt as i don't know the difference!!

 

[breezer]

should i get an orbital or belt as i don't know the difference!!

orbital goes round in a circular motion, belt is literaly a "continious belt" also great (so i see) for belt sander racing