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Garage Wall Construction...

Discussion in 'Building' started by christianbeccy, 17 Apr 2019.

  1. christianbeccy

    christianbeccy

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    I'm at the planning stage of a detached Garage, but just trying to work out what space I need.

    I anticipate 5m wide by 8m deep internal floor space.

    What is the best route for wall construction? Cavity wall? Single skin with reinforcing piers?

    I'll have a conversation with Building Control too, but just wanted an idea of what's the common route...

    Thanks in advance.
     
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  3. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Single skin with piers
     
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  4. jasonzyx

    jasonzyx

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    Rendered.
     
  5. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Is that a construction method?

    I suppose it's great if you wasn't to paint it every 4 years, and replace it every 15, look at it, and to pay more for it in the first place. :rolleyes:
     
  6. christianbeccy

    christianbeccy

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    Yeah, that seems to be the likely outcome. Then secondary insulation if/where needed. (the back third'ish will be internally subdivided for a small workshop space).

    Our main bungalow is rendered, but there really wasn't an option with that. The brickwork was really too far gone. I think I can get away without rendering the garage, particularly if I match the bricks to the substantial front garden wall. I'd really prefer not to render.
     
  7. jasonzyx

    jasonzyx

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    Sorry, yes, I assumed you were using blocks.
     
  8. noseall

    noseall

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    215mm solid wall. Brick outer (pointed) block inner.
     
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  9. 23vc

    23vc

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    I’ll be doing the noseall method purely because I’ve got more chance of getting the face work neat on both sides. Never done a single skinner.
     
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  11. stuart45

    stuart45

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    You only really get one good face side, no matter how good you are. Bricks are normally at best slightly irregular in shape.
     
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  12. A detached garage you can do in single skin bwk with piers , solid wall brick outer blockwork inner skin , or cavity wall construction. If you are thinking about insulation a cavity wall would be best if you have the space. You could just do the insulated workshop part in cavity wall construction if you wanted.
     
  13. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Shall I return my Lego for a refund? o_O
     
  14. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    I think you've come on quite nicely with the help from us on here.
     
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  15. If you don't want the full cavity wall option the ' 215mm solid wall, brick outer (pointed) block inner ' is best for lateral restraint fixings and the verge construction detail and better most would say than a half brick wall.
     
  16. christianbeccy

    christianbeccy

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    I had originally anticipated a 300mm cavity wall, based on inexperience and the fact that I do tend to overkill everything. Someone then suggested to me a single skin with piers every 3m, on the basis that I could secondarily insulate where required, but building control didn't sound too keen. They have referred me to parts of Document A, which I am yet to read/digest.

    The conversation with building control did draw me towards a cavity wall with a 75mm cavity as that sounds advantageous for the other conundrum, which is the fact that I want as large a door as possible on the front. I understand I need to get a structural engineer to justify the solution for this door, or be content with 780mm returns, which I would prefer to reduce.

    I appreciate all input so far, but any further help/tips are appreciated.
     
  17. christianbeccy

    christianbeccy

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    Further to this, what other aspects do I need to consider? Is Eaves height relevant?

    I'll be having a conversation with a Structural Engineer this week. I have a family member who is a handy CAD'er, he's drawn up an early version, but his profession is designing Ventilation Systems, not Buildings, do you think there's a need for any more than this, once I ensure I've hit whatever requirements Building Control will have?

    I feel it's a bit of a Chicken/Egg scenario and I just want to crack on! Thanks for your help everyone.
     
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