Gas Cooker Hose

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I have taken delivery of a new gas cooker can I legaly swap the hose from my old cooker to my new cooker or do I have to a CORGI plumber to do it?

The hose is a new bayonet fitting and I only had it replaced on the old cooker 3 months ago

I was going to put PTFE tape around the threads and do it myself, if you can let me know

Cheers

Dave
 
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If you're competent you can, but I don't agree with your choice of jointing material. Don't forget to carry out soundness and commissioning checks.
 
Check the guarentee on the cooker. It may say must be fitted by Corgi reg fitter or guarentee invalid


cheers
 
the guy that installed our cooker used ptfe? although it was a bit thicker and he used some white jointing type compound. Not sure if you have to be registered or not just "competent" so the way i read that is, if you do it and it leaks your incompetent. so if you are worried at all probably best to get someone in.

I don't think the joint has to be that great as its only resisting 20mbar which is diddly squat in the grand scheme of things. (a hoover is sucking at 200mbar)
 
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sanj.varah said:
the guy that installed our cooker used ptfe? although it was a bit thicker and he used some white jointing type compound.

not supposed to use both on same fitting.

Not sure if you have to be registered or not just "competent" so the way i read that is, if you do it and it leaks your incompetent

not really correct. an RGI is competent but for a number of reasons it may leak "once ive done it". an RGI ,however, knows how to do the correct checks to ensure that it isnt leaking. if it is, an RGI would "do it" again.

don't think the joint has to be that great as its only resisting 20mbar which is diddly squat in the grand scheme of things. (a hoover is sucking at 200mbar)

and yet a surprising amount of leaks occur from a "diddly squat" pressure.
 
sanj.varah said:
the guy that installed our cooker used ptfe? although it was a bit thicker and he used some white jointing type compound. Not sure if you have to be registered or not just "competent" so the way i read that is, if you do it and it leaks your incompetent. so if you are worried at all probably best to get someone in.

I don't think the joint has to be that great as its only resisting 20mbar which is diddly squat in the grand scheme of things. (a hoover is sucking at 200mbar)

EH!!! :eek: :eek:
 
I don't think the joint has to be that great as its only resisting 20mbar which is diddly squat in the grand scheme of things. (a hoover is sucking at 200mbar)

Slight difference in that gas goes BANG!!

You will also need to commission the cooker to make sure it is safe to use. Then, of course, there is the stability fitting to be considered. Just cos it's new don't assume it is safe. There was a case recently of a gas fire being installed and not checked cos it was new - ended up with one person & a dog dead!
 
Niskso wrote

and yet a surprising amount of leaks occur from a "diddly squat" pressure.

Thats because you dont pressure test your systems.
You run a few millibar through and hope for the best.
Lets face it ,you could blow up the end of the pipe and probably create more pressure.
That windbag Softus could anyway. ;)
You also use fluxed soldered joints which lets face it also, is not a very good way to join a copper pipe.
The Aussies wouldnt let you near their systems. :LOL:
 
As usual you just post the biggest load of crap that you think will stir an argument :rolleyes:

OP you should really get a CORGI in as new gas appliances have to be registered with corgi and building control. Normal ptfe is NOT allowed for gas, it has to be the one wrap type, or jointing compound that is rated for gas.
 
gas4you wrote

As usual you just post the biggest load of rubbish that you think will stir an argument

Just stating my findings.
Have you figured out how to size a condensing boiler pipework system yet ? ;)
You wouldnt get near my place with your poxy soldered joints buddy. :mad:
 
Thats because you dont pressure test your systems.

correct me if im wrong but 20mbar is a pressure, and is also a pressure that has been deemed the correct one at which to test installations of a certain type.

You run a few millibar through and hope for the best.

i dont view 20mbar as a "few" mbar. our definition of a "few" must be different

Lets face it ,you could blow up the end of the pipe and probably create more pressure.

i dont doubt it, but why is this relevant?

You also use fluxed soldered joints which lets face it also, is not a very good way to join a copper pipe.

and yet in my personal experience the majority of leaks occur at compression fittings and not soldered ones that have passed previous tests. newly soldered fittings may leak but thats the point of doing a test to establish whether or not they are leaking after installation.

properly soldered joints in general seem to be fairly rugged unless abused in some manner.

The Aussies wouldnt let you near their systems.

as i live nowhere near aussie and havent completed the relevant courses or exams to prove my competence there it can hardly be surprising they "wont let me near their systems"
 
I can do it in my sleep! I don't have to justify myself to an argumentative plonker like you who has never posted anything constructive on here yet :rolleyes:
 
gas4you wrote

I can do it in my sleep!

Dreaming then. That figures.

I don't have to justify myself to an argumentative plonker like you who has never posted anything constructive on here yet

Who gives a **** ? As I said you wouldnt get near my place.
 
Nickso wrote

and yet in my personal experience the majority of leaks occur at compression fittings

Like I said. You dont pressure test. :rolleyes:
 
Balenza said:
Nickso wrote

and yet in my personal experience the majority of leaks occur at compression fittings

Like I said. You dont pressure test. :rolleyes:

like i said. 20mbar is a pressure. its used in a test.
 

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