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Gas Fire Removal

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by John_ON, 1 Jul 2010.

  1. John_ON

    John_ON

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    It's a bungalow with breezeblock and plasterboard internally. The pipe runs across the loft, comes down behind the fireplace back panel and terminates with something like this: http://www.bes.co.uk/product/6~NG~43~43~-Restrictors.html

    May I ask why you suggest removing the pipe?

    John.
     
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  3. MIGEM

    MIGEM

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    Because of what I said before.
    If you leave a gas pipe in the wall, that does not need to be there, or serves no appliance, it is a risk.
     
  4. John_ON

    John_ON

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    The main reason I want to swap the fire for an electric one is because the flue for the gas fire just goes straight out through the wall. Unfortunately, it's position is such that the prevailing north west wind blows straight in. Although it doesn't affect the fire, in winter, you can feel the cold air sweeping across the room at floor level. It completely negates any cavity wall and loft insulation.

    So, plan B would be: Currently, there's just a wire mesh guard outside. I fitted a bit of a deflector last winter as a temporary measure but is there an "official" box or something that could fit over it? Because of the location, an external vertical flue isn't allowed but some sort of "draught excluder" only a little larger than the mesh grill would be acceptable.

    John.
     
  5. Agile

    Agile

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    You cannot add a draught diverter to an existing gas flue. Thats risking CO poisoning.

    We would charge about £45 for capping off an old supply as a new job. thast based on fitting it in and not a timed appointment.

    If it was an existing customer or part of another job then about £35.

    Tony
     
  6. galwag

    galwag

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    I think somehere between £55 - £65

    Anyone charging £30 or doing it on their way home are in my view looking to get in & out of house quick as poss.

    summary of work needed

    1. locate & check emergency contol valve
    2. check for earth bonding
    3. locate and turn off pilot lights to appliances
    4. carry out letby check
    5. carry out initial tightness test
    6. cap or plug off gas pipe with appropiate fitting
    7. local ldf test
    8. another tightness test.
    9. relighting any pilot lights
    10. visual appliances check
    11. record all checks carried out

    apologies if ive missed something - sure someone will let me know

    all of this takes time and some of these tests may potentially open a can of worms & more time will be needed.

    regards

    galwag
     
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  7. John_ON

    John_ON

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    Thanks for the detailed list. The cost makes more sense when I see it like that.

    British Gas fitted a new boiler late last year so, hopefully, there wouldn't be any hidden nasties during the tests.

    I'm not sure where this job is going at the moment. An "outset" electric fire that I like the looks of http://www.firesrus.co.uk/catalog/h....html?osCsid=2e0937dbd4a69324d09cbb0f2b0e82aa but, unless I can source it locally when I need it, I'd have to send away for it and commit to the job.

    Might just be easier to wear a pair of thick socks in the winter :)

    John.
     
  8. Fazz

    Fazz

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    I've just read this thread and have some concerns as last week I had a Gas Fire removed - we have bricked up the hole and intend to plaster over and just have a clean wall - no fire in the room.

    The local Gas safe engineer did it: tested for leaks, capped it (screwed in and soldered a cap), retested for leaks and left - seemed reasonable ... but this thread indicates he should have removed some of the pipework.

    I did ask if more of the pipework should be removed but he said there was no point - it will be covered when the wall is plastered. Cost was £60 ... his bill describes the work ... all above board.

    Should I ask him to return and remove it?
     
  9. gasafengineer

    gasafengineer

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    Not always easy to remove redundant gas supply pipe , imagine the scenario when telling the customer wall has to be cut out to remove pipework , even if this were the case where would it stop? , would the customer be happy for the carpet & boards to be taken up , what if the fire has to be reinstated @ a later date? , absolutely no problem leaving the gas supply capped off close to appliance/fire , many times when running the carcass i'm asked to run a gas supply over to fire opening for 'future' install , this may be a good few years down the line.
     
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  11. Terrywookfit

    Terrywookfit

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    Why don't you milk it some more?
    I would just "snatch it" with a compression cap end.
    A quick squirt of ldf and you're away. :LOL: :LOL:
     
  12. Fazz

    Fazz

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    Thank you for the replies ... you have put my mind at rest regarding the left over pipe. I'd guess he did the various tests and I'm monitoring the meter for any movement over a few days to prove to myself it's still ok.
     
  13. dont take this the wrong way but why should you now be happy things are suddenly ok, off an internet forum. yet you employed someone legit who carried out the work to what is deemed safe. so i suppose you go to kwikfit to get your brakes done. then ask on a forum if they did it right. this forum should not be used to second guess someone after they have done a job. advice on problems on systems etc is what its all about. but not on people. wouldnt be nice if we asked someone else, on how good you are at your job would it.
     
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  14. expertgasman

    expertgasman

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    You don't need to remove the pipe. What about new builds? They routinely have a gas pipe installed to the lounge, regardless of the existence of a flue.

    £65 to cap of a pipe! Theres no reason the pipe can't be capped, and leave it to the client to remove fire and block up.

    I get resistance to charging £70 to service a fire, and I know some of you do LL checks for less.

    OP. We supply and fit these:

    http://www.paragonfires.co.uk/media/Downloads/6570 PAR OpenFlameBro_v9 LO RES.pdf

    See page 12

    They do a fan flue version, but with an option of a heat saver, which is essentially a flap that closes when the fire is off. I am not aware of any other maker that does this.
     
  15. onlyfitidealboilers

    onlyfitidealboilers

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    spot on.
     
  16. onlyfitidealboilers

    onlyfitidealboilers

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    you would too :rolleyes:
     
  17. flutterbye

    flutterbye

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    In my view, the above is a stark lesson to all homeowners to ensure the gas safe engineer they use has a full order book from a base of satisfied customers and doesn't need to fish for work !
     
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