Halstead Finest Gold Boiler lock out problem

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28 Sep 2005
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Location
Hampshire
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United Kingdom
I have a problem with my Halstead Finest Gold boiler (natural gas) going into lockout which has been getting progressively worse for the last few months.

The problem initially only occured when DHW was switched on whilst the boiler was cold (CH off). If the CH was switched on whilst the boiler was cold, then lockout would not happen.

For a couple of months we just put the CH on about 5 minutes before we needed DHW and then no lock out would occur.

However, now the problem has started to affect CH also and we are finding that CH will also cause the boiler to lockout in the first few minutes after being switched on.

The problem does seem to be a bit random. Some days I can run a bath with maybe only one lockout and another day it may lockout 10 times whilst trying to run a bath.

Typically once the boiler has warmed up then the problem occurs a lot less.

I have been reading quite a few posts in the forums and as a result I have replaced the spark and detection electrodes and I also purchased a refurbished PCB from CET Ltd in Watford, but neither of these have had any affect on the problem.

I also checked the temperature of the DHW & CH flow pipes coming out of the boiler to check the diaphragm and this seems fine. When the boiler is cold and the DHW is switched on. The CH pipes remain cold whilst the DHW quickly gets hot.

I have no reason to suspect a problem with the gas pressure. The gas cooker for example works fine, but will definitely get a corgi guy in if this needs testing.

I have a multimeter, but am not aware of how to diagnose what is causing the lockout. I would certainly appreciate any information or guidance.

Thanks in advance

Richard
 
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Thanks!

I did check the temperature of the DHW & CH flow pipes coming out of the boiler to check the diaphragm. When the boiler is cold and the DHW is switched on. The CH pipes remain cold whilst the DHW quickly gets hot.

Would this imply the diaphragm is OK or would you still advise replacing?
 
shukerr said:
Thanks!

I did check the temperature of the DHW & CH flow pipes coming out of the boiler to check the diaphragm. When the boiler is cold and the DHW is switched on. The CH pipes remain cold whilst the DHW quickly gets hot.

Would this imply the diaphragm is OK or would you still advise replacing?
try this switch it to central heating feel the flow pipe to ch if its ok try hw only with tap on feel the ch flow pipe coming from boiler if its geting hot its not diverting properly take a chance and replce
 
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Right I think I understood.

I turned the CH on for about a minute and felt the pipes start to warm up.
Leaving the CH switched on I then turned on the hot tap in the kitchen and ran this for about 5 minutes.

During this time the DHW pipe was too hot to keep touching, but I felt the CH pipes cool down.

I got my wife to turn off the DHW whilst I sat with the boiler. The boiler remained lit and I heard the diaphragm operate. Within a few seconds the CH flow pipe out from the boiler was too hot to touch.

Thanks for your help here. Any thoughts on this?
 
I don't see any reason to suspect the diverter/diaphragm.

Turn the mains off for 10 seconds, then back on again, with no call for HW or CH. The boiler will test itself. You will probably find it will sometimes lock out. There's a common problem on this boiler which would have taken a boiler engineer 10 minutes to fix with no need for any spare parts! It needs someone corgi reg to do it.
 
Thanks ChrisR!

The Boiler has never locked out when first switched on at the mains (with CH & DHW switched off). It just whirs away for about 10 seconds or so and is ready for use.

It is driving me mad this morning. It has locked out three times trying to get the CH to warm up so that I can chance a shower.
 
Problem Solved!

I finally decided to get a Corgi registered chap in and called two different guys based on recommendations from friends.

When I described the boilers symptoms over the phone both of them drew a blank and said I had tried everything that they could think of (PCB, flow swithc and detector electrode).

The second chap suggested I call Halstead Technical and gave me the number. Halstead technical immediately told me to clean out the Venturi.

Removing the fan I discovered a small piece of foam insulation was caught in the middle of the venturi. The boiler is now working fine.

I am posting this information for a couple of reasons.

1) So that this information may benefit others!
2) Do you have to be corgi registered to remove the fan?
3) I read a hell of a lot of posts before posting my problem, but did not see one mention of venturi issues. Why is that (since Halstead locked onto that immediately)?

cheers

Richard
 
I read a hell of a lot of posts before posting my problem, but did not see one mention of venturi issues. Why is that
Fan venturi problems are pretty rare and the symptoms you described at the beginning didn't point in that direction. Halstead obviously deal exclusively with and get to know the problems peculiar to their boilers.

Having said that, I once had a fan venturi blocked by a spider's egg nest! I always give the venturi a blow through when servicing fan.
 
I suspect Halstead first asked if the boiler ran OK with the burner cover off! It's naughty of them but it helps to isolate this venturi problem. I had this also on a Finest Gold combi, the previous mechanic had changed the PCB and electrodes (by blindly following the manufacturer's fault finding guide.)
This problem has come up twice on the same boiler within 2 years, and once on another Finest Gold, so make sure the fan comes out and is cleaned at every service.

It is illegal for non-registered mechanics to interfere with gas carrying parts of a boiler, this includes the flue. In your case you must not remove the inner cover (which means you can't get to the fan) unless you are CORGI registered.

That's the law. I'm not going to argue the pros and cons of it, just be aware that you're breaking the law if you're not registered and justify it to a Court, not this forum.
 
If you look at the replies to your posting you will see that ChrisR clearly had the venturi problem in mind but quite correctly did not give you advice on fixing it as it should only be done by a CORGI registered person.

It worries me how some CORGI registered people here will give advice on gas related issues to people who are likely to have a go. There is a legal liability aspect involved if someone gives you advice and you blow yourself up. Better to let a professional do it for you.

The only advice which can safely be given to an unqualified person is to get a CORGI !

Tony
 
my aunt has this boiler and she has had 7 british gas engineers out to try and fix it i use the word engineer losely!it never had this fault to start with.the heating was switching itself on at random.but they firstly cleaned the fan?then they emptied the system through the pressure relief valve and knackered that then they put a new diverter kit on and then they put on a new pressure relief valve [which is still leaking out constantly]then they said all of the problems were caused by dirty water in the system and said it needs a powerflush,which they quoted £592 for,and they will not touch it again until this has been done!meanwhile the boiler s original fault remains and it has gained a few more!!!they have also snapped off one of the control panel hinges ruined a brand new quilt cover by putting dirty tools on it and left blood all over the wall where one of them cut himself !nothing like the professionals you can trust is there!so my aunt is left with no heating or water working. water constantlyrunning down the wall if she tries to use it and no money to pay £592 for a powerflush,which is why she insured the boiler in the first place!good old british gas eh!
 
my aunt has this boiler and she has had 7 british gas engineers out to try and fix it i use the word engineer losely!it never had this fault to start with.the heating was switching itself on at random.but they firstly cleaned the fan?then they emptied the system through the pressure relief valve and knackered that then they put a new diverter kit on and then they put on a new pressure relief valve [which is still leaking out constantly]then they said all of the problems were caused by dirty water in the system and said it needs a powerflush,which they quoted £592 for,and they will not touch it again until this has been done!meanwhile the boiler s original fault remains and it has gained a few more!!!they have also snapped off one of the control panel hinges ruined a brand new quilt cover by putting dirty tools on it and left blood all over the wall where one of them cut himself !nothing like the professionals you can trust is there!so my aunt is left with no heating or water working. water constantlyrunning down the wall if she tries to use it and no money to pay £592 for a powerflush,which is why she insured the boiler in the first place!good old british gas eh!


Why does she not phone up and complain?? She might get better attention and the problems that are covered rectified.

If there is sludge in the system your homecare agreement is null and void,
tells you in the exclusions of the cover.

BG are not a charity and if there are problems with the system, the engineer will highlight this and give best advice to rectify the problem. they are not there to fix poor installation mistakes.
 

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