HELP Needed with Cooker Socket

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by AndrewL, 28 Jan 2008.

  1. AndrewL

    AndrewL

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    Hi,

    Can anyone help!!!! :rolleyes:

    I'm fitting a part electric cooker but have been told I need to move the electric socket as its above the cooker which is dangeous. :cry:

    Can I just but a junction box where the socket is now and then run the wiring across the wall to the desired location of the socket or do I need to do it another way.

    Any help/ advice would be greatly appericated.

    Thanks,

    Andy ;)
     
  2. Chri5

    Chri5

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    Couple of things:-

    What part of the new cooker is 'part electric'- if it's just the control and timers for a gas cooker then the electrical load is tiny, if it's got induction plates for the hob, the consumption is large (this may dictate the size of cable).

    Could you confirm that the electrical socket you mention is a dedicated cooker socket or is it part of a ring main servicing multiple sockets in the kitchen? What fuse size controls this socket / point back at the fuse board?

    Have you investigated the cable to the existing socket and from where the cable runs from? (I'm thinking of the possibility of the cable route being 'pulled' back to a suitable new location).
     
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  4. AndrewL

    AndrewL

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    Hi Chris,

    It's a duel fuel cooker. The hobs are gas and the ovens are fan assisted. The socket for the cooker is a dedicated switch for the cooker but it also has a spare socket for other appliances.

    I was told the heat from the cooker could cause a fire so the socket needed to be moved as it is located above the cooker.

    The power supply for the socket come straight in from the wall. What I need to know is what do I need to do to get this socket moved to a safe place.

    Hope that helps.

    Andy :D
     
  5. Chri5

    Chri5

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    Andy

    A normal cooker type switch would tend to have a 10mm TE feed from the fuse board as a dedicated circuit.

    Could you please check the rating for the fuse that serves this circuit which will help confirm likely cable size.
    Would you also look at your cooker socket and tell me what make and size it is, the reason being that some are surface units, some are sunk units and they tend to come in a variety of sizes.

    If the cooker socket is sunk, if it's supported by a standard size twin socket back box then you'd be able to use the old back box as a junction point with a blank face plate cover and run a new cable between the old location and your intended new location.

    You will also have to consider a service cable between the new cooker socket position and the cooker termination point.

    Cable will require chasing in to the wall unless you intend to use trunking (which in a kitchen looks cack).
     
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