Honeywell 2 port Valve

[Ralp]

I have to replace a Honeywell 2 Port Valve. I was told that some of the 3 port version have a nipple on the casing which means you can replace the motorised section without draining the system. Does anyone know if this is the same with the 2 port. The one i have has no nipple, so want to be sure before i take it off - thanks in advance for any help

 

[croydoncorgi]

more of a 'dimple' than a nipple. Applies to ALL recent 3 and 2-port Honeywell valves. It means that you can replace the whole actuator without disturbing the valve body or draining the system. On ANY Honeywell valve, you can replace the MOTOR within the actuator. It's usually the motor that's the problem.

When you take off the tin cover (power OFF first!), you should find 2 (and only two!) captive screws securing the actuator to the body of the valve. Loosen them and you can remove the whole actuator. Even if you're jsut going to replace the motor (£10 - 15) it's a lot easier to take the actuator off first.

 

[Ralp]

Thanks for that. This one def has no dimple, and when casing off seems to have 3 of 4 screws holding the head to the valve.
Do I therefore have to drain down??
Also when the room stat calls for heat, the motorised valve seems to be stuck open(could have been stuck for a while) but now it does not fire up boiler and pump. Does this seem just the motor to you?? If it is the motor is it just a case of disconnecting and changing over wires or do i need to solder??? - thanks for all your help

 

[dal5band]

Can you move the lever on the end ? This opens the valve manually, assuming it is "normally closed". The spring should push the lever back when you let go. However, you can hook the lever into a little notch for testing - may get you going temporarily.

 

[Softus]

It's not some of the Honeywell 3 port valves, it's all of the ones made since 1986.

The same applies to 2 port valves.

 

[dal5band]

Surely this means any old design valve is over 20 years old - I'd change the whole unit as the valve part is probably pretty worn or gunged up.

 

[Softus]

Surely this means any old design valve is over 20 years old - I'd change the whole unit as the valve part is probably pretty worn or gunged up.

Is there something magical about 20 years that would cause you to replace something that isn't faulty?

 

[Agile]

You cannot assume anything! Someone may have fitted an old valve!

If its four screws then its a wet job.

The key factor is if the lever will open and close the valve. If not then the whole valve needs changing. If so then probably only the motor can be changed.

Tony

 

[Softus]

Wise words Agile.

 

[ChrisR]

Or, you can just change the actuator and the ball/plate which sits in the old valve. You can buy the ball/plate separately, though I'm pretty sure the one you get with a whole new valve is the same. Can anyone confirm that?

There's only any point changing the ball/plate in an old valve if for some reason the old whole valve is really hard to get out. Can happen wiith a 2 port but more common on a 3 port.

 

[ollski]

Or, you can just change the actuator and the ball/plate which sits in the old valve. You can but the ball/plate separately, though I'm pretty sure the one youet with a whole new valve is the same. Can anyone confirm that?

There's only any point changing the ball/plate in an old valve if for some reason the old whole valve is really hard to get out. Can happen wiith a 2 port but more common on a 3 port.

Yes exactly the same chris.To be honest I have only ever replaced one honeywell body because it was scaled and the ball couldn't seat properly otherwise always change b&p...less to leak.

 

[Ralp]

thanks for all your comments, just a bit confused. The manual/auto lever does nothing it just moves freely, with no resistance. I am assuming it is stuck on open, as the pipework on either port have been hot. Can I drain down and just change the actuator head with motor(if the valve itself seems freely movable). As it currently doesnot trigger the boiler, is it this which is likely to be the fauly part (sometimes fires up boiler, then for days on end it doesnt). Hope this makes sense to someone

 

[chrishutt]

The manual/auto lever does nothing it just moves freely, with no resistance

They do that for a limited amount of movement, but if you push it further towards the "man" position you should feel the resistance.

 

[ollski]

You could try just changing the motor in the hope that is is not reaching the microswitch which is often the case, although if it fails to do the job you will need to drain down to allow you to fit the new ball and plate which will accept the replacement actuator as it will probably mean the microswitches are gone.

 

[Ralp]

The auto/man lever definately has no spiring or resistance at any point, it is completley loose. I guess i will have to drain down and replace - thanks everyone