how do I conceal the downlight edges?

6 Jun 2006
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United Kingdom
Maybe the title isn't right but basically we had 6 holes cut in our ceiling for downlights. Things looked ok untill we had to play around with them due to a problem with the transformers. Now around the edges when the lights aren't turned on you can see dark edges where the rim doesn't sit flush against the ceiling.I've tried to puch the lights in further but they won't budge. Just wandering if there's anything I can use aroun=d the edges to tidy them up?
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Me think you have been watching to much Star Trek, hehe.

Spot lights and transformers etc......

Anyway, best thing for your situation is use Decorators Acrylic Caulk (flexible filler in a tube) and put the Caulk in a appropriate Gun. They sell them in B&Q.

Switch lights off for one hour then apply the filler from the Caulk in the gaps and then slightly sponge away excess filler. Leave for 24 hours to dry. Then put your Treky lights back on.

Job done.......
and this is safe considering it's acyrylic? If it is safe this will suit me fine and I'll get my wife to do it.
Pulling them in & out has weakened the springs, either see if your supplier does replacements or give them a tweak by hand.

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On a similar note I suppose(?) I would like to replace existing downlights with new gu10 type. Trouble is the holes for the existing downlights are too big for the newer ones. Any tips on how to make the holes smaller?
Here are some tips for the above - having replaced a conventional flush-fitting bathroom light with a downlight I also ended up with a hole that was bigger than the new light. I used Polyfilla with a round-ended blade and built it up in layers. Luckily for me, my ceiling was artexed so I didn't have to worry about a smooth finish anyway, but if your ceiling is flat, then you can give it a light rub with fine glasspaper and then paint over. To fill any small gaps or cracks around the outside of the new downlighter, I would suggest using a mastic or sealant, such as Polycell Squeeze & Seal for Kitchen & Bathroom. It comes in a grey tube with nozzle, so no gun required. You can practice first on an old bit of wood, but you will soon get the hang of it. I find it easier to squeeze some around the joint and then using a damp finger to go over it, then wipe any excess with a soft damp cloth. The gun method is OK for sealing around baths and showers, but I think the other way is better for smaller areas where you don't want too much. :)

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