Ideal Response water heating - more problems

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Recently you diagnosed a problem with my Ideal Response 120 not heating water - you recommended I clean or replace the DHW flow switch. I've cleaned it and it worked for a couple of days but now its behaviour has become erratic. Sometimes it works perfectly and others it starts (eventually) then the burner switches off and I lose hot water.

I came to an understanding with it where I start the water to trigger the switch then keep the flow on about 50% to ensure it heats the water quicker than it distributes it. However, tonight when trying this technique the boiler let out to sickening thuds, similar to being hit by a baseball bat (something I've considered but not yet done!). Obviously something's not right with the flow switch and it more than likely needs replacement, but can you explain these thuds? It has continueed to heat the radiators flawlessly throughout all of this.
 
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Most people would fit a new switch if it was not working reliably.

In your case it seems to me that you have another problem with your boiler probably a combustion related one.

If I thought it was the gas valve then I suppose you would take it apart and clean it ! ( Dont ! )

Tony
 
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call in Ideal. They now have special rates for responses! Their way of sub-conciously admitting they were a c*** boiler :rolleyes:
 
oh dear! Re-alligned pipework off vented system (flow and return cw and dhw) and hung a brand new Ideal excel 30kw boiler 3 weeks ago ready for my commissioning engineer. Wouldn't fire, kept locking out. Between the 2 of us it took 10 mins to diagnose an electrical fault (prob PCB) visually checked all electrical connections and immediately informed Ideal. Informed them that it was likely 2 b pcb and said, "please, as its under warrantee (which may be voided if we started pulling out and reconnecting electrical connections etc), make sure your appointed service engineer brings a pcb!" Needless to say 4 days later he arrived took 1/2 an hour to diagnose fault and didnt bring a pcb!!! :rolleyes: it took eleven days for Idal to rectify the problem. (Thankfully house was a refurb and not inhabited)

Needed new PCB, (although pump was bled) pump was seized (Ideals fella said probably cos it had been sat on the shelf for so long! ) Also flame sensor in combustion chamber was mis-alligned. So 3 faults on a boiler that one would presume was supposed to be pre-tested at the factory!!! :?:
 
titus
Your flow switch needs about 3.5 litres a minute to reliably switch on - test your flow. Can be too low due to a soggy/blocked flow restrictor, or limescale.

The banging is boiling due to overheating - which makes them switch off.

These heaps will overheat on HW if the primary thermistor has crud around it.
 
Er, your question betrays a misunderstanding of how it works... um,

First what is the hot water flow rate?
Second, you need a manual!
 
Have you had the ideal o/h stat fitted in case the flue baffles have corroded away (very hot flue gasses which could seriously damage flue)
 
The boiler was in the house when I moved in, so I've no idea what (if anything) has been done to it before I arrived. All I've done is drained the system a couple of times in the past to prevent it overpressurising.
 
loafer said:
oh dear! Re-alligned pipework off vented system (flow and return cw and dhw) and hung a brand new Ideal excel 30kw boiler 3 weeks ago ready for my commissioning engineer. Wouldn't fire, kept locking out. Between the 2 of us it took 10 mins to diagnose an electrical fault (prob PCB) visually checked all electrical connections and immediately informed Ideal. Informed them that it was likely 2 b pcb and said, "please, as its under warrantee (which may be voided if we started pulling out and reconnecting electrical connections etc), make sure your appointed service engineer brings a pcb!" Needless to say 4 days later he arrived took 1/2 an hour to diagnose fault and didnt bring a pcb!!! :rolleyes: it took eleven days for Idal to rectify the problem. (Thankfully house was a refurb and not inhabited)

Needed new PCB, (although pump was bled) pump was seized (Ideals fella said probably cos it had been sat on the shelf for so long! ) Also flame sensor in combustion chamber was mis-alligned. So 3 faults on a boiler that one would presume was supposed to be pre-tested at the factory!!! :?:

Ideal Excels are known problem boilers which are manufactured to a very low cost primarily for the new build market. Ideal are now politically trying to withdraw them and flog them out to diy chains :rolleyes:
 
FYI, I got a new flow switch, put it on and still had the same results. Decided to take the right-hand panel off to follow the route of the wires and found the socket for the switch hanging off the circuit board...

Having said that, it only works perfectly 70-80% of the time. I've noticed that the fan sometimes switches off after 30-40 seconds making the water go cold again. I've found that turning the taps off and on helps to restart it, and more often than not the fan stays on after that. Is there any reason why sometimes the fan will stop while the burner keeps going?
 

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