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Induction hob - "no power between live and neutral"

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by The Gent, 27 May 2021.

  1. The Gent

    The Gent

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    I have been having some work done in my kitchen which so far has been a bit of a disaster...

    For the last three weeks I have been without a hob. I had new kitchen worktops fitted after which I went to turn the hob on but it wouldn't function. When I called the fitter, he stated he didn't disconnect the hob but he would come around and take a look. He checked whether there was power running from the socket to the hob, which he said there was and that I needed a new hob i.e. it was broke. In the meantime I have had a NEFF engineer out to check the hob, the engineer told me there was no power between the live and the neutral wires and that's why the hob wouldn't turn on. He couldn't test the unit any further but also he couldn't resolve the fault as said he wasn't an electrician - £99 call out charge for that.

    Now, I still don't have a working hob but I don't know what the next step is. I don't want to have to pay someone else to come and take a look as I am already out of pocket. Is there anything obvious that stands out here? The hob was working fine, now it's not but apparently there has been no change yet the engineer states there is no power between the live and neutral wires. It was fine until the day I had the worktops replaced.
     

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  3. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Do you have a multimeter?
     
  4. The Gent

    The Gent

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    Personally not no. Assume the NEFF engineer did.
     
  5. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Well, you will need one to find any problems.
     
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  6. The Gent

    The Gent

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  7. AndyPRK

    AndyPRK

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    If you have a 13A plug, as a test, you could disconnect the flexi cables, and put them into a normal plug, and plug it into the wall.
    That prove the hob works.
    You need to keep brown and black together though and grey and blue together
    Don't put more than 2 rings on though


    Alternativly, look at those (incorrect) connector blocks. Ensure screws are touching copper

    That is not a long term way to make a safe connection.
    How is the oven connected ?
     
  8. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Yes, that will do.


    Firstly, set to 600V ac,

    upload_2021-5-27_14-20-19.png

    then put one probe on the red wire and the other on the black.
    The meter should read around 240V.
    Let us know if it does.


    Also, you said 'socket', but do you actually mean there is a plug on the end of the grey cable?
     
  9. The Gent

    The Gent

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    Good call on sticking it on a plug to test. I wouldn't even need to turn the rings on as I could just check whether it went into standby.

    The over is connected on a different mains. It's switched on and off via a switch at the wall which has its own fuse in the fusebox.
     
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  11. The Gent

    The Gent

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    Ok, I will get one of those and let you know.

    I actually can't see what's on the utter end of the grey cable. You can't get to it. I wouldn't have thought it was a plug, otherwise, the hob just could have been plugged in.
     
  12. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Yes, I agree, but you wrote:

     
  13. The Gent

    The Gent

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    I just meant the wall, I can't see whether it's a plug or just a wire.
     
  14. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Ok, so switch; not socket.
     
  15. securespark

    securespark

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    It seems two "tradesmen" have messed up here. The spark leaving wiring in that messy state and the fitter for forking up the connections when he swapped the 'top.

    Is the cable suitably sized?
     
  16. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil

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    I’m putting my money on a link in the connection area on the Hob not being fitted or incorrectly fitted

    Phil
     
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  17. The Gent

    The Gent

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    When you say suitably sized, what does that mean?
     
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