Installation of a new 16 Amp rated Bosch single oven

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by PhilDom, 24 Jul 2010.

  1. PhilDom

    PhilDom

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    My good partner bought and had delivered a new single oven and i thought that it must be sdame as the last one where it simply plugs in. Wrong, it has no plug or wire and must be a fixed connection. OK so I have an existing 30 Amp switched connection to the main board for my hob - q - can I use this existing connection (I am going to replace the hob anyway) or will I need a new direct connection?

    Should I give up and get a professional?

    Grateful for any good advice
     
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  3. securespark

    securespark

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    What does the book advise?
     
  4. EdwardCurrent

    EdwardCurrent

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    Hello PhilDom.

    We would need to know the power rating of your oven ?
    The distance and installation method of the cable run ?
    Does the cable/circuit have RCD protection ?.

    Then there's the hob issue, both 'could' possibly be fed from the same supply, but again we would need to know the power consumption.

    No point in getting the oven sorted, then moving onto the hob after, I would try and sort both issues out together. I understand that you may only need the ignition feed if your hob is to be gas, on the other hand it could be electric, mixed fuel etc.

    Ed
     
  5. nelectric

    nelectric

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    YES

    I can not believe that the other responders are trying to help you. This MUST be done under part P. You need a suitably qualified electrician to do it for you.

    I know it is going to cost you to do this, but this sort of scenario is exactly what Part P (like it or not) was introduced for.
     
  6. PhilDom

    PhilDom

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    The manual does not state the power rating, only that it's 16 amps. I have contacted Bosch who state they do not supply that information nor is it on any website - hence my problem.

    The existing run is approx 6 metres of switched 6mm cable and has it's own 30 amp RCD. I understand of course the issue about the existing hob and because it's so old want to replace it anyway. I wondered whether I could utilise the existing run for this new oven (Bosch HBN531e0b all electric) and a new hob of say 2.2 kw.
     
  7. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    We must know the rating of the new hob.
    If it is all electric then it will be significantly more than 2.2KW. Expect around 6-8KW for a ceramic hob and much more for an induction.

    A gas hob (of course) uses hardly any electricity!

    You will proably be OK to connect up an 8KW hob and you 16amp oven to you existing supply.


    Do ignore nelectric's trying to worry you about Part P.
    Connecting up an appliance (or appliances) to an existing supply point is not notifiable as you would not be changing the fixed wiring in any way.

    Do come back with info on the hob you plan to have and will give you more info on how the connection can be accomplished. There are safe methods for connecting two appliancs to the one feed.
     
  8. nelectric

    nelectric

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    WRONG!

    16A => 3.5kw
    3.5kw + 8kw = 11.5kw => 50A

    He only has 6mm cable and do not know the reference method. And try applying diversity on xmas day when oven and hob are in full use.

    I'll leave you to do the sums for how many amps can be drawn in a 8kw appliance.

    And how do you propose he connects two flexes into a single switch?

    Whichever way you look at it, the existing install is going to have to be altered.
     
  9. electronicsuk

    electronicsuk

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    That alone doesn't make it a contravention of the regs, and for the sake of the (somewhat unlikely) scenario of the fuse popping/MCB tripping on Xmas day, it's a small price to pay to save running in a new supply. I'm not saying it's what I would do, but if the OP can't afford an electrician then it seems a fair compromise.

    Yes, the cooker outlet plate would probably have to be changed to a twin, which would be a modification to the fixed part of the installation. However, back in the real world, would anyone really pay the large LABC fee to have this sort of work inspected?
     
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  11. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    But the appliances will never be on 100% utilisation. Even on Christmas Day.
    The hob's plates, and the oven, have things called thermostats. These regulate the heat and mean that you do not have to allow 50amps for those two reatively small appliances.

    Do look again at the real load requirements using diversity, unless you have shares in a copper mine. ;)
     
  12. 1john

    1john

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    nelectric, does the n stand for 'no idea' ?? So what if WITHOUT diversity the total load is 50Amps? How long will it actually draw that for?? How long will every element be on at the same time, how often will this actually occur? How long will a 30A fuse / 32Amp MCB run for with 50A running through it? I am not with big red at the moment, but surly you could have a look. Without diversity applied you must create some crazy demands of the DNO, do you call them telling them that you need a 200A supply in a domestic installation as you have installed a cooker (50A) shower (50A) two ring final circuits (64A) immersion heater (16A), two 10A lighting circuits and xmas is coming?
     
  13. nelectric

    nelectric

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    Back off with the insults 1john - not necessary and uncalled for. I took on board the reasoned arguments that electronicsuk and taylor2c both put in a polite way and decided to leave them with the last word.
     
  14. PhilDom

    PhilDom

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    I am buying a 6.2 kw (26 amp @ 240v) hob and with the 18 amp oven (I make that 4.3 kw) I now have a total of 10.5 Kw or 44 amps. I could use a double socket and the existing 6mm cable into the existing 32 amp breaker and take my chances? Could I change the breaker to a 50 amp or would this allow to much?
    Actualy if I could find one who would do it I would probably go for a new line fitted by an electrician but I bet it would cost me a new cu.

    Thank you
     
  15. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    You can not use a double socket. Sockets are rated at 13amps. You know that individually the hob and the oven could pull more than 13amp each, So pop goes the fuse in the plug - assuming you could get the cable in there, which I doubt.
    PS, I thought the oven was 16A, not 18A??


    Upgrade the braker to 50amp? NO NO NO. The breaker is there to protect the cable in the event of a fault.
    The 6mm² can catch fire if you put 50amp through it.
    Protective devices must not be changed without properly testing and inspecting the existing cabling to see if it can cope with the additional current. You need calibrated test equipment and detailed knowledge to do this.

    Hob and the oven you have will need to be hardwired in. Put one of these on your existing cooker connection point and connect the appliances using the supplied or recommended cable (maximum csa 6mm²).

    NOTE: check that the maker does not need a separate fuse for the hob or oven. If it is needed then another solution is required.
     
  16. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    [​IMG]
     
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