Internal insulation for solid brick walls - stud or insulated plasterboard?

JP_

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before the lot drops off in 6 months.
I've insulated my 1930s solid wall house like this. Oldest boards have been up since 2017. No signs of anything falling off.

Why do people trust dot and dab, but not other adhesive types?
Why doesn't the plaster ripe the paper off plasterboard?
Maybe the glue works!
 
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I've insulated my 1930s solid wall house like this. Oldest boards have been up since 2017. No signs of anything falling off.

Why do people trust dot and dab, but not other adhesive types?
Why doesn't the plaster ripe the paper off plasterboard?
Maybe the glue works!

It depends if the surface is designed/able to be adhered to. D&D is designed to glue well to paper... but shiny metal foil coatings on PIR boards, you want to make sure it's the right adhesive. If there is an adhesive that advertises working on PIR boards and on brick I would trust it (no idea if there is) but if the PIR manufacturer says not to glue I would ask myself why.
 
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I went with wood fibre for a fully vapour permeable build up. System was 'Warm shell' from Lime Green in Shropshire.

PIR can work but ensure the house manages humidity well because no retrofitted VCL is perfect.
 

JP_

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It depends if the surface is designed/able to be adhered to. D&D is designed to glue well to paper... but shiny metal foil coatings on PIR boards, you want to make sure it's the right adhesive. If there is an adhesive that advertises working on PIR boards and on brick I would trust it (no idea if there is) but if the PIR manufacturer says not to glue I would ask myself why.
It worked for me, and has worked for others.

https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect....dryfix7-instructions-technical-data-sheet.pdf

Reviews: 12 x Everbuild Pinkgrip Dry Fix Drywall Adhesive and Applicator Gun Dryfix
 
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Most of the insulated pb I've seen is not foil backed, it's paper backed (Except British Gypsum Thermaline, which had no covering). I can't imagine many adhesives working well on nice, smooth, low grip metal foil.

Maybe there is some benefit to using foam to get the separate board and PIR in the right position, but then mechanical fixing the board would be my approach.
 
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Everybuild foam does. If you try to pull it off is often pulls the foil off

I looked on the data sheet, and it didn't say what PIR coverings it was compatible with, strangely.
 

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It does say it sticks to metal though. I have used some anchors where I felt it was needed, but I did some pull tests of my own when I first used it and could not pull the boards off the wall without breaking them and leaving bits behind.

"For fixing plasterboard to metal and timber stud walls and battens"

In my bathroom, I glued them to the wall then fixed STS tile board over with mechanical fixings through the brick, just because I wasn't sure of the effect of the extra weight. But some areas of plasterboard are just glued. Certainly no sign of movement anywhere, and I've done 4 rooms over the last 4-5 years. I spoke to a builder once when I was planning to mechanically secure all boards and he said no need.

Maybe it will all fall down in a few years ... who knows? If there's any sign of movement I'll put in a mechanical fixing and make good.
 
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It does say it sticks to metal though.

Ah yes so it does, just as long as it's grease free. Not sure I'd feel confident, but maybe I'm being old fashioned!

I have to remove some mechanically fixed boards next year, it is going to be a nightmare.
 

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Ah yes so it does, just as long as it's grease free. Not sure I'd feel confident, but maybe I'm being old fashioned!

I have to remove some mechanically fixed boards next year, it is going to be a nightmare.
I'd hate to remove them! I needed to adjust one of the fixings I put in for the tilebacker over insulation, and it would not budge. Had to resort to using the big hammer to make the fixing disappear!
 
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I'd hate to remove them! I needed to adjust one of the fixings I put in for the tilebacker over insulation, and it would not budge. Had to resort to using the big hammer to make the fixing disappear!

I had someone do it for me, as I was busy with another room. There are 4 wide by 8 tall frame fixings per board, 4 boards total.

I'll need to make an ungodly mess I think to strip the board and insulation, then grind off all the frame fixings - can't wait! The wall is becoming an internal wall.
 
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If not been mentioned already then would this need to be checked if it requires building control approval? I seem to remember if you 'renovate' a certain percentage of your external walls then and upgrade to the thermal efficient is required? Of course this is what you are doing, but that's when I thought it might need BC? Might be wrong but worth checking!
 
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Look at Kingspan K118 brochure for further guidance/information
I was looking at K17/K18 and the latter is suitable for direct mechanical attachment without battening or adhesives. It looks like Celotex do something similar.

What exactly is different about k18? This seems a real bonus on the face of it.
 
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Have battened a wall myself.

I used treated timber battens. Insulated inbetween then vapour barrier and then plasterboard. I had someone plaster it though as i cant plaster!

Worked a treat.
 
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The screwfix sticky foam according to them is the holy grail I need. Apparently sticks foil backed insulation board to brick and plasterboard to foil PIR. I’ll report back in a couple of weeks when I do it asking for advice on how to fix a balls up!
 

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