Joining a worktop

[robmorgan]

Hi All,

We're about to fit a couple of worktops (one each side) to our galley kitchen.

Cutting out the holes for the sink and hob sounds fairly straightforward - just jigsaw'em and seal up the exposed edges with PVA.

Cutting the straight ends should just be a case of drawing a straight (or not depending on if the room is true!) line and cutting it with the jigsaw and a downtooth blade.

The only part I'm not sure about is this - at one end of the kitchen, one of the worktops tapers down to accomodate the door/entrance.

With the existing worktop, they've cut the short end of the main piece of worktop at a slight angle (~45 degrees) and joined it to the tapered bit using a couple of recessed brackets on the bottom to hold it together. It's a nice joint - nearly invisible.

I'd really appreciate it if someone could break down in plain english exactly what I need (bearing in mind I'm your average home DIY'er and have not a clue what a biscuit router or a something-or-other shank is - yet!) and as simply as possible, what the steps are for achieving a nice tidy, solid joint.

Many thanks in advance,

Rob

 

[Lower]

You need:

a router that has a big enough chuck to take a 1/2" shank bit
a worktop jig
a 1/2" straight edged router bit longer than the thickness of your worktop
a biscuit cutter router bit (basically a router bit that cuts a groove into the edge of the work top so that a biscuit can be inserted)
some colourfill joint adhesive, the colour of your worktops.

if you buy a work top jig then they usually come with instructions on how to do the joint.

Its actually quite straight forward if you take your time. I bought a cheap router, a mdf worktop jig off ebay and some decent router bits. I've made 4 joints so far, and put radius's on all the corners of our worktop and i have to say the joints are better than what you see in most kitchen showrooms. They are virtually invisible.

 

[robmorgan]

Thanks for the instructions. They may still be applicable, but I think in this case it's going to be a bit trickier.

Check out my artistic rendition:

This is how the old worktop slots together.

As you can see, it's not your standard 90 degree join. The left piece needs to taper down to meet the door, and they're joined at a slight angle.

Would I be able to use a standard worktop jig to make this join? I'm thinking if it's got enough clearance either end of the template, I'll be able to use it to make a basic straight cut, without angling it at either end, as you would in the case of a 90 degree join.

What do you think? Is there another (simpler) way to tackle the job?

 

[splinter]

That joint has been cut at a angle of 22.5 degrees . you could cut this with a straight edge and router ,and use bar top bolts underneath to pull the joint up tight
It would help you if you cut a hardboard pattern first

 

[robmorgan]

Thanks Splinter, I'll go ahead and rent the router.

Do I not need the worktop jig then?

How would I cut a hardboard pattern and what would it do?

In addition to bar top bolts (which I can take from the old worktop), what else do I need to make the joints - biscuits?

 

[splinter]

I don't think you would need a jig just a straight edge to use as aguide for the cuts.

All the hardboard pattern will be is a copy of the 2 pieces of worktop that you are going to cut ( better to make any mistakes on the hardboard than the worktop) once the hardboard has been cut and fitted properly this can then be used as a pattern for the worktop

Disregaurd what I said about the angle of 22.5" itis wrong

If you fit the 2 hardboard patterns in place both with 90"!angles at the front edge of the cut , with one pattern overlapping the other, the angle you want will be half the overlap .Clear as mud ehh

Yes , I would put 3 biscuits in the joint.


Ps you might even want to consider employing a carpenter to do this joint for you

 

[robmorgan]

Thanks Splinter.

One cut down! Messed it up first time - didn't hold the router down firm enough and it jumped the straight edge! Fortunately I had some leeway, and made the cut again - slowly and firmly.

Certainly a tool that commands respect!

No worries, didn't take the 22.5 thing literally, but got your general point. Am actually now just using the original worktop as a template for measuring the cuts.

Anything I should know about cutting the holes/channels for the bar top bolts? Again, was just going to roughly mimic the original worktop. Don't have a jig, so will just have to do it without - will that be OK do you think?

Heh, I would've employed the carpenter, but all the ones I called were busy! Earliest I could get "squeezed in" would've been December! Busy season for you guys is it?!

 

[JohnArnoldBrown]

I've made cutouts for the worktops bolts freehand, and I'm a computer programmer. So it can't be too hard!

 

[robmorgan]

As am I! If only I could write some code to do all this for me

OK, I'll just go for it...