Kitchen worktop cut-out

[AndersonC]

I need to make a cut-out in a work surface to take an inset sink.

I was originally planning on using a jigsaw for this, however have experienced problems with jigsaws due to the blades having a mind of their own, bending, twisting etc. I was therefore going to purchase a decent jigsaw and use that carefully.

I have been told this morning that another option is to use a router with a template to make the cut out. I've never used a router before so am unsure of the advantages or disadvantages of this.

Can anyone please offer advice/advantages/disadvantages of either method as I don't want to ruin a £80 worksurface. Also any recommendations of tools/blades/bits manufacturers would be really appreciated.

Thanks a lot

 

[AndersonC]

Sorry for got to mention this is for the kitchen! Although I guess most people would assume that.

I've also just read the title of my post.......

 

[Scrit]

I need to make a cut-out in a work surface to take an inset sink.
I was originally planning on using a jigsaw for this, however have experienced problems with jigsaws due to the blades having a mind of their own, bending, twisting etc. I was therefore going to purchase a decent jigsaw and use that carefully.

That's an idea - I'd take a serious look at something like a Bosch industrial jigsaw (a blue 'un). These are a lot of money against a DIY machine, but it will last, and last, and last...... just make sure that you buy something like Bosch jigsaw blades to go with it, not cheapo ones and throw them away as soon as they start to blunt. A good blade to use on worktop cuts has downwards pointing teeth. (and no, I have a Metabo, but they're much of a muchness)

I have been told this morning that another option is to use a router with a template to make the cut out. I've never used a router before So am unsure of the advantages or disadvantages of this.

You'd need a 1/2in heavy dity plunge eouter (a bit more expensive than a jigger). And still a bit of a waste of effort, really as you'll have to make your own jig (nobody does a pre-made one), it's slower than the jigger and it makes a LOT more mess. Better is to mark-out your cut-out, drill the four corners out then jigsaw between the corners. That works for me.

Scrit

 

[Porker]

I'd agree with Scrit, use a jigsaw to cut out as router will take longer and make more mess. I have a Bosch Pro jigsaw and they still wander a bit but there is usually reasonable tolerance on the cutout for this not to be a problem. A tip I got was to clamp a batten across the worktop (underneath) to stop the cutout dropping when the final cut is made and tearing the last piece. Also cover laminate with masking tape to see line clearly and stop scratching from jigsaw.

 

[Scrit]

I have a Bosch Pro jigsaw and they still wander a bit but there is usually reasonable tolerance on the cutout for this not to be a problem. A tip I got was to clamp a batten across the worktop (underneath) to stop the cut out dropping when the final cut is made and tearing the last piece. Also cover laminate with masking tape to see line clearly and stop scratching from jigsaw.

The wander matters a lot less if you are using a downcut blade as people generally don't look on the underside of a worktop. Anyway a sink or a hob does have a lip so at least you've got some leeway. The batten is sort of a good idea, but personally I just use a few strips of black gaffer or duct tape - takes up less space in the van and can be applied from the top. In any case it's sometimes impossible to clamp a batten in place and you'd be hard pushed to get a second cramp in at the rear (a cut-out for a double sink is pretty heavy) which means you run the risk of the batten or cramp poking out and doing you a mischief because it at just the right height and if you do use a batten it will need an 18mm (or thicker) packer because the worktop will be supported by the horizontal stretcher at the front of the carcass and by a vertical nailer/stretcher at the rear. The masking tape is a very good idea, but note that many trade-rated jigsaws have a plastic "anti-mark" base plate attachment available if marking is a worry. I tend to wipe off the baseplate and wax it from time to time and the only worktops I really worry about are the high gloss ones. Those I try to avoid like the plague in any event as they're "boomerangs" (i.e. you keep getting called back )

Scrit

 

[AndersonC]

Thanks guys! A jigsaw it will be then.

 

[confused 2]

Just cut out of the corners with a jigsaw, then use a good old fashioned handsaw to join up these cuts.

 

[Scrit]

Just cut out of the corners with a jigsaw, then use a good old fashioned handsaw to join up these cuts.

But if the jigsaw is wandering to start with you'll probably end up starting the hand saw "wonky" as well and you're still talking in terms of making a plunging cut with the jigsaw which can be a hazardous manouvre (that is why a corner drill-out is better, that and the fact that cracks won't propogate from a round corner). Hand sawing a 40mm laminated top is hard work and requires a fairly fine saw to ensure that the laminate doesn't chip-out. If you must do it this way it's best done with a hardpoint saw as the combination of chipboard and laminate will blunt the "good old fashioned handsaw" in double quick time. So it's not something that you want to do on a saw you then intend to use on wood........ Unless you like to spend your evenings resharpening and setting saws, and is why tradesmen with decent tools rarely do it.

Scrit

 

[joe-90]

Just about any jig-saw with a pendelum action will do. You don't have to apply pressure to the blade as the angle is set more aggressively. Then you can concentrate on guiding it.
If you still struggle then clamp a straight-edge to guide you.

joe

 

[AndersonC]

Ended up buying a DeWalt with some down cut blades. Drilled 13mm dia holes in the corners, clamped it all steady with battens under to hold the cut out section and took it steady. Came out brilliant.

As for the mention of using a handsaw - these worksurfaces are as hard as nails and 40mm thick - would have taken me all day!! That's why we all love power tools so much

 

[keyplayer]

As for the mention of using a handsaw - these worksurfaces are as hard as nails and 40mm thick - would have taken me all day!! That's why we all love power tools so much

Sounds like you need a new handsaw as well.

 

[confused 2]

As for the mention of using a handsaw - these worksurfaces are as hard as nails and 40mm thick - would have taken me all day!! That's why we all love power tools so much

Sounds like you need a new handsaw as well.

I agree a good handsaw [and a good man]will cut a 40 mm worktop faster than a jigsaw anyday

 

[Scrit]

I agree a good handsaw [and a good man] will cut a 40 mm worktop faster than a jigsaw anyday

Do yourself a favour - don't take up kitchen fitting for a living.....

A standard single sink cut out is approximately 450 x 550 mm (give or take) in the middle of a worktop. Hand saws are designed to start a cut at an edge, and tthe blade depth on my Disstons (hand saws) for example varies between about 75 and 125mm, so just how do you intend to start the cut in the middle of a worktop? The other reason for drilling the corners out is that cracks in the laminate have been known to start from sharp inside corners. So I'm also curious to know how you get round corners with a hand saw

Scrit

 

[confused 2]

I agree the corners need cutting with a jigsaw, after drilling for access but then a hand saw to cut the straight sides.

 

[Scrit]

Do you think you could describe how you start a cut in the middle of a 40m thick worktop with a handsaw?