Laminate flooring - concrete/timber sub floor

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Laminate flooring - concrete/timber sub floor

I have just had a conservatory added to the rear of my house. I now have
one through room (no dividing doors). The original room had timber
floorboards but these have recently been replaced with 8x2 18mm flooring
sheets (don't ask). The conservatory has a concrete floor. I have a few
questions that I hope someone can help answer.

1. How long should the concrete base be left before laying any flooring on
it. I am planning to lay a good laminate. The concrete slab has been down
for about 2 months. May main concern is moisture levels.

2. The conservatory is not South facing and will not get full sun/heat in
the Summer. I have decided to lay a good laminate. Does anyone foresee any
problems with laminate in a conservatory. Should I be looking at engineered
wood?

3. As I have 2 different sub floors do I need to do anything differently or
just treat as one floor. I know the concrete will need a dpm membrane on
top or underlay with a inbuilt dpm.

4. The flooring I am looking at is by 'Parador'. Has anyone used this, is
it any good? The boards are 8mm thick, v-groove and with the click system.
I was hoping to find something in the range at about 9 or 10mm. Is the
thicker the better (more rigid?). Are there any laminates to avoid

5. Finally, I am a little concerned about the noise level from the laminate
laid over the original floor that is on joists. What type of underlay is
best to reduce noise? Is it best to lay the thickish felt sheets or would a
thin underlay off the roll with dpm be ok?

Cheers
 
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1) rule of thumb: 30 days per inch (25.4mm) new concrete/screed before all moisture is evaporated normally

2) Melamine Laminated (plastic) has MDF of HDF backing. Our preferences goes to wood-engineered flooring in areas where there can be rapid changes in temperature and where there is risk for extra moisture (condensation).

3) see here

4) Thicker is better, more rigid. Stay away from cheap stuff

5) Melamine is plastic and will always sound harder than real wood (as in wood-engineered floors). See 2
 

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