Laminate Flooring Dilemma!

[lolly]

Hi,
I am in the process of laying laminate in my bungalow. I have a t shaped entrace hall with doors off to all rooms. Originally i was going to ceramic tile the hallway so have layed the 6mm ply fixed every 4 inches to the chipboard flooring. The laminate has been layed in the main bedroom up to the doorframe and i was going to continue without laying door bars. Now, for the question. Would it be best to leave the ply down in the hall and lay my felt and laminate straight over, then use door bars over each door frame. The laminate itself is only 6 mm thick, so would the level notice? Or, would it be best to take all the ply up (dont know though what mess this will make of the chipboard floor underneath (ringnails used). Also off the hallway is the kitchen and bathroom and these have already been laid with ceramic tiles, so the floor in these rooms is higher anyway, so with the ply in the hallway already laid, would this be better for when the hall flooring meets these 2 rooms. Help greatly needed..Cheers Lorraine

 

[WoodYouLike]

If your installed plywood is sound and level, just lay the foam and laminate on top of it (make your life easy )
for all doorways use the appropriate thresholds, reducers, t-bars or ends (where the other floor isn't really level, like with some types of tiles, or in your case, where the tiles are higher than the level of the floor with the laminate. Makes a neat finish)

 

[lolly]

Hi Woodyoulike,
Thanks for your reply. Thats what i was thinking of doing, but as all the laminate is 'matching', would the level difference in the laminate notice when the doors are open in each of the rooms. (i am very,very fussy as you can see!)

 

[WoodYouLike]

Not really sure what you mean, I'm afraid.
What will be the difference in height between the rooms? Tiny (less then 0.5cm) will go unnoticed if you install a t-bar.

 

[lolly]

Hi,
Thanks for your reply. What i meant was the difference in the floor level will be the 6mm plyin the hall. All the laminate is matching at 6mm thickness, so the hallway height would be 6mm higher than the other rooms.

Cheers
Lorraine

 

[WoodYouLike]

Got you!
You need a 'reducer' threshold (ramp) there then, going from the higher level to the lower level. There are special ones (brass or even wood-veneer) available in may sheds (DIY-stores) and laminate selling carpetplaces.
Hope this helps

 

[lolly]

Hi,
Now i have that bit sorted now for the next!
I like to do things properly and am really fussy (as u have gathered so far). I understand that i lay my flooring like brick effect. The flooring is rustic oak plank effect. Although it says lay brick effect, should i still stagger the joints so that every other one matches up, or is it best to say leave an extra foot difference on every row. Which way is proper please?
Such a flippin fusspot me, and i create problems before starting a project.
Oh and while i think about it....is it really that easy to turn over a plank to lay next to the door frame and cut it out to slide the plank under the frame..or is it easier to butt it up close...
Cheers
Lorraine

 

[WoodYouLike]

I like to do things properly and am really fussy (as u have gathered so far). I understand that i lay my flooring like brick effect. The flooring is rustic oak plank effect. Although it says lay brick effect, should i still stagger the joints so that every other one matches up, or is it best to say leave an extra foot difference on every row. Which way is proper please?

It's best to have a random staggered effect, also for stability of the whole floor. E.g. lenght of first board in first row 30cm, length of first board in second row 90cm, lenght of first board in third row 60cm. Second boards in all rows are full boards etc. The cut of of the last board in the row you can use as beginning of the fourth row (if lenght of cut of is more than 25 cm).
Hope you'll understand what I mean, I'm trying to find a good picture to show the result of this method.

 

[lolly]

Thanks for that. I think i know what you mean.
So on the first row 30cmstart,second row 90cm, third 60cm......Then after the third do i repeat again at 30cm start,then 90 and 60 again...

Thanks
Lorraine

(dad has just laid my bedroom and layed them brick effect and every other joint lines up, but it does look good though) In the hallway i think it best to do it randomly like you say.

Cheers

 

[big-all]

i personaly would not "plan" how they look just go with the cutting
joints as w u l says should be 12"/300mm apart minimum
you use the off cut from the first length to start the next
if the next row is going to bring the joints in previous row within 300mm start another plank cutting as nessesery[either more or less than300 as more than 300 dosnt matter]
then on the third row use the first row off cut and on the fourth use the second row off cut
clear as mud eeehh

 

[WoodYouLike]

Thanks for that. I think i know what you mean.
So on the first row 30cmstart,second row 90cm, third 60cm......Then after the third do i repeat again at 30cm start,then 90 and 60 again...

No, not exactly, that was just to indicate the random stagger. You don't have to repeat the same pattern every three rows, be 'creative' as long as each joint is more than 30cm away from the next board.

 

[lolly]

Oh thanks so much, it is all clear as mud.As normal though (i am a mad woman) i do have a post mortem before commencing. I am a perfectionest...hehehee...that way, if any mistakes are made then i can only blame myself and no one else. Tradesmen hate coming here...hence thats why i try for myself to my standards...LOL...Mrs Bookay is my nickname...Ta guys...

I will let you know when i complete the project how i got on then.

Thanks
Lorraine.